Replacing Glenwall

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by ps004ynos, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. ps004ynos

    ps004ynos New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    los angeles
    Hi all,

    I'm not a plumber but am considering replacing three toilets in my parents place. They are wall mounted American Standard toilets, so I believe they are Glenwall models based on what I have read. They are gravity flush.

    My questions are:
    1. Can someone confirm they are Glenwalls? I cannot seem to attach a photo but I haven't come across any wall-mounted American Standard toilets other than Glenwalls. I didn't want to assume and buy another toilet only to find out it doesn't fit.
    2. From what I've read, you cannot retrofit a gravity flush bowl with a pressure assisted tank e.g. Sloan Flushmate. It seems the the only option I have is to purchase a newer model pressure assisted Glenwall. Are there alternative pressure assist toilets that match up with the wall carrier?
    3. Finally, if I purchase a pressure assisted Glenwall, are the newer models equipped with the newer Flushmates that don't have the cracking tank issue (i.e. the exploding toilet stories I've read).

    Thanks for any help.
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The Flushmate recall was on tanks in the 2008 and older range.

    All of the 4-bolt carriers are the same, a little plus or minus on the bolts through the wall, but that can be adjusted.

    If you have a 4.0 gallon gravity tank, then you need to either find a second hand tank, or go with a new 1.6 gallon tank and bowl. The new Glenwall is a pressure assist 1.6 gallon toilet.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2012
  3. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,973
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Maybe this is a stupid observation, but I will make it anyway:

    Just make sure you have a "wall mount" toilet as opposed to a "rear discharge" toilet.

    Rear discharge toilets sit on the floor and connect the discharge to a closet flange in the wall, which flange is mounted slightly above the floor. You screw the toilet into the floor, and bolt it on the flange as well.

    Wall mount toilets mount to the wall well above the floor, and leave a totally-unobstructed area under the toilet, like it is floating in the air. That's what a Glenwall does.
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Updated November 17th 2012

    I now also carry the Gerber Maxwell Wall Hung Toilet
    Gravity with a 3" flush valve, and fits the standard 4-bolt pattern.
    $379.99 in the Seattle area.
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2014
  5. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,973
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Two thoughts. First, as long as you're asking about a specific online listing, I would just point out not to miss that $185 open box from the same company's warehouse deals outfit; doesn't seem like it's actually "used", with free shipping. I don't know if that's closer to what Terry would sell it for... Second, is the double-flusher fixable for less money than replacing it? It might be worth having a look in the tank to make sure that the flapper is functioning properly, that it's the right style to discharge the amount of water that the toilet was designed for and that the fill valve is adjusted to reliably fill to the proper level every time. On one old toilet in our house that didn't flush properly when compared to its twin elsewhere in the house, which has a great flush, I was finally smart enough to look at how the guts were functioning and realized that the fill valve wasn't set to the same level as the good one and the flush valve was closing sooner. When I put new Korky guts in it with their universal complete toilet repair kit, the flush valve/flapper issue was fixed and I set the fill to the level of the one that worked properly and, luckily enough, it started to flush like its twin. On a toilet in my city apartment, it was immediately evident that the flapper was binding to the flush valve and not moving freely and that the chain was misadjusted, which was why I had to hold the dang button down until it emptied, and the water level was way lower than the stains in the tank indicated it used to be. When I replaced the flapper, adjusted the chain, and bent the rod on the ballcock to make it fill to where it apparently used to fill, it now functions somewhat adequately, which is an enormous improvement. That said, the new pressure assist will probably make a significant difference for you!

    EDIT: Sorry, I didn't initially realize that you were actually asking if the 4098.100.XXX tank was the right tank for the 3402.016.xxx bowl. According to the parts list sheet on the A/S web site, yes it is: A/S Overly-complicated parts list for Glenwall and Other Toilets
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012
  6. ps004ynos

    ps004ynos New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    los angeles
    Great, thanks for confirming the tank. I noticed the open box tank for cheaper as well. I'm leaning towards buying the tank locally due to Terry's post about American Standard return rates in his old post here: http://www.terrylove.com/forums/sho...oilet-and-Yorkville-review&highlight=glenwall

    I'd rather be able to box it up and drive it back rather than box it up, send it back, wait for replacement to show up if I buy online.

    Good thoughts on the old flusher. Yes, the water level was actually incorrectly low. The fluidmaster shank was set too low so the maximum water level was not close to max. I corrected this and the flush remains poor. There is a big rush of water into the bowl, then as it drains, it slows significantly finally ending with a weak elimination (sorry, I don't know technical toilet terms). Do you think it's worth trying to auger it? Can you run an auger through a wall mount?
  7. ps004ynos

    ps004ynos New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    los angeles
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