Replacing a silcock - a few questions

Users who are viewing this thread

Lvrpl

New Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Dallas, Texas
I've got a silcock that froze over the winter that I need to replace. I was hoping for some pointers on a few things:

1. Are there any brands in particular I should use or avoid? I've seen a couple mentions of Woodford, which they also sell at the big box stores - would those be decent? Any chance I can get a decent one at a big box? (That lets me do the repair on a Saturday since I need to match the length after I turn of the water and remove it.)

2. What's the simplest or best thing to use to fill the gap around the silcock flange and my brick? Right now, it looks like my front yard one is sealed with some mortar and hardened putty, and the back looks to be just some sort of hardened putty.

3. A friend helped me change the front yard one a few months ago and all we did is twist it off (it's threaded) and thread in the new one. I've now read that's a bad idea and one should get in the wall behind to use a second wrench to be sure you don't twist or break the supply pipe. How necessary is this? Did I just get super lucky on the front yard one?

Thanks for any help or advice.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
You got luck when you just twisted the old one off. This is a job for two wrenches and is done from the inside. Woodford is a good brand. As far as sealing is concerned, a mortar mix would likely work OK. Be sure the new unit is sloped slightly to the outside and in the future, do not leave a hose connected in the winter.
 

Quarterball

In the Trades
Messages
79
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
Ohio

Attachments

  • sillcock main image1 w cutaway.jpg
    sillcock main image1 w cutaway.jpg
    41.1 KB · Views: 1,897

FullySprinklered

In the Trades
Messages
1,897
Reaction score
208
Points
63
Location
Georgia
Not crazy about the freeze proof spigots. What experience I've had with them left me unthrilled.

I usually get a spigot from depot, and adapt into whatever pipe is used in the house and shove it through the wall into the basement and make my connection in the basement ceiling however possible. When I push it into the brick, I'll wrap a ring of plumbers epoxy around the backside of the spigot and mash it into the wall. The bigger the hole, the more epoxy you need to seal and secure the hose bibb. It sets up in a few minutes, so be patient. A sharkbite on the inside often works for me to reconnect to the house piping. Putting a freeze-proof spigot on your house is like getting married to a lesbian for the sex.
 

Lvrpl

New Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Dallas, Texas
Not crazy about the freeze proof spigots. What experience I've had with them left me unthrilled.

I usually get a spigot from depot, and adapt into whatever pipe is used in the house and shove it through the wall into the basement and make my connection in the basement ceiling however possible. When I push it into the brick, I'll wrap a ring of plumbers epoxy around the backside of the spigot and mash it into the wall. The bigger the hole, the more epoxy you need to seal and secure the hose bibb. It sets up in a few minutes, so be patient. A sharkbite on the inside often works for me to reconnect to the house piping. Putting a freeze-proof spigot on your house is like getting married to a lesbian for the sex.

So pardon my ignorance, but what's wrong with a freeze-proof spigot?
 

FullySprinklered

In the Trades
Messages
1,897
Reaction score
208
Points
63
Location
Georgia
It's a good idea poorly executed. Service calls on these are a butt-clencher for me. I truly hate them. I've worked on several that were passed on by other plumbers. Same old story. Parts not available when they start dripping, tube split wide open when it freezes, awkward location for the install, on and on and on.

Do us all a favor and let the sucker drip, turn the winterization shut-off valve off, put the Styrofoam cup over it, whatever.

(Factor in my 34 degree latitude.)
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
The things must be installed properly...for the most part, that means that the working parts are buried far enough inside of the wall so that it won't freeze, that you have the specified slope to the outside of the main shaft so that it can drain, and that you do not leave a hose on it, trapping water inside of it that cannot drain. Woodford does make a few that will drain, regardless of whether you leave a hose on it or not, and if you're forgetful, that might be useful.

It depends on how the connection is made inside of the wall. If, say, they used a drop-ear el, and anchored it well, there would be no issue about just unscrewing it from outside. If it's on a loose pipe, you might be trying to wind it up like a torsion spring, and it could be an issue.

The shaft on the thing needs to be long enough to put the working parts inside far enough so that it isn't likely to freeze. Depends on the type of insulation, the wall construction, how air tight it is, and probably some other factors. Even a long one, way back, could still freeze if there are air leaks.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks