Replacing a cracked waste & overflow assembly

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pmthomps

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I hired +++++++to find a leak that was coming from the upstairs into the downstairs ceiling. According to the paperwork I have from the plumber who found the leak: The waste & overflow assembly is cracked on the guest bathroom tub. The ceiling is opened up from underneath with access to the pipes (picture is attached).

Is this a project that I would want to tackle by myself or hire a professional? If hiring is the route to go, what would be a reasonable price for this work, could anyone recommend a good plumber for this job?

Thank you!

Peter
 

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Markts30

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You hired a plumber to find the leak - why not have him fix it while he was there?
It is something you can do if you are handy and can cut and fit pipe but, if in doubt, hire it out...LOL
 

Jimbo

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I can't see the leak in the pic, but there is not quite enough room to work. Patching a hole 3 times as big as that is not really much more work. So, if you open the hole up, it is a project which is within the bounds of DIY. Post some more pics. Get an ABS waste and overflow assembly at a plumbing store, a small can of ABS cement, a spud wrench to remove the tub drain, and then come here if you have questions about how it all goes together.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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Jimbo, I think you meant tub wrench (round, four slots on the bottom)...a spud wrench is for chrome finishes, like flushometers.
As for doing the trip waste... do know it's an aggravating task...wear a long sleeve shirt to avoid scratches on your forearms.
I'm also wondering why a plumber would look at it and not do the work?
 

pmthomps

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm a relatively new homeowner and this was the first leak I've ever had. The plumber who I hired to find the leak was asking $1k flat rate for the repair. The cost seemed high to a newbie of home repairs, so I figured I would either find another plumber or do it myself (with the help of handy friends).

Of course without seeing much of details, does that cost seem within reason for this type of work?

Thanks.

Peter
 

GrumpyPlumber

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pmthomps said:
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm a relatively new homeowner and this was the first leak I've ever had. The plumber who I hired to find the leak was asking $1k flat rate for the repair. The cost seemed high to a newbie of home repairs, so I figured I would either find another plumber or do it myself (with the help of handy friends).

Of course without seeing much of details, does that cost seem within reason for this type of work?

Thanks.

Peter

um...in saying "1K" you meant one thousand...right??
GET another estimate!
I'll do it for 1/3rd that and still feel like I need a confession!
 

Jimbo

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In my neck of the woods, a spud wrench is anything which is not an actual pipe wrench or crescent wrench. In other words, any specialized tool tends to be called a spud wrench.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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jimbo said:
In my neck of the woods, a spud wrench is anything which is not an actual pipe wrench or crescent wrench. In other words, any specialized tool tends to be called a spud wrench.

Sounds alot like the use of "spanner" wrench...it's actually another word for wrench, yet it's definition varies from person to person.
Spud wrench is a pipe wrench with flat gripping surfaces to keep from mauling finished chrome, brass or similar finish...though you're right, I've heard everything from basket strainer to basin wrenches referred to as spud wrenches.
Best way to put it to test...go to a plumbing supply and ask for a spud wrench.
But then, funny thought, maybe 3 different suppliers will give you 3 different wrenches.
 

Jimbo

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got_nailed said:
A spanner wrench is used to tighten fire hose fittings.

Except on the other side of the pond, it us used to take your lug nuts off.



Ridgid does call a smoth jaw wrench a spud wrench....as for toilet spuds, etc.

But also found on google:
Title:
[SIZE=+1]Universal spud wrench [/SIZE]
Document Type and Number:
United States Patent 4237754
Link to this page:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4237754.html
Abstract:
A universal spud wrench designed for rapid installation and removal of all types of spuds from drains, etc., including a tubular shaft having four perpendicularly oriented sloped surfaces forming slots, and aligned extensions adjacent said slots which are defined by differing diameters about a central axis.

http://www.iron-design.ca/
http://www.istockphoto.com/file_closeup.php?id=118261

Spud Wrench

A generic name for many types of wrenches that have large, flat-sided jaws.
Good for general purpose plumbing use.
The Adjustable type is an all-purpose model with notched jaws ideal for various sizes of nuts. It is the handiest and most common.
The Fixed type works with large spud nuts under kitchen sinks.
The 4-in-1 is similar to the fixed type and is use for turning locknuts on the toilet tank, basket strainers and spuds.
The Closet type is designed for toilet tanks and bowls.

The Internal type holds the sink strainer basket in place while you tighten the locknut below. It can also remove or install closet spuds, pop-up plugs, and strainers

etc.etc.


http://www.iron-design.ca/
 
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Lee Polowczuk

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too much money.

i surely agree that you have to open up more drywall... stud to stud...joist to joist.... that will give you elbow room.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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RUGGED said:
I call mine a dumbbell wrench. It's a big hunk of aluminum with opposite sized ends to fit in the hole and remove the drain assembly IF there anything sturdy enough to let it pull out.

Here, that name's already taken...the lil' lady won't let me use it for anything but me.
 

GrumpyPlumber

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jimbo said:
Ridgid does call a smoth jaw wrench a spud wrench....as for toilet spuds, etc.



A generic name for many types of wrenches that have large, flat-sided jaws.

etc.etc.


Dat's what I wuz talkin' about!!!!
Who's on first?
Aaaaabbbooottttt!!!!!
 

Dubldare

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RUGGED said:
I call mine a dumbbell wrench. It's a big hunk of aluminum with opposite sized ends to fit in the hole and remove the drain assembly IF there anything sturdy enough to let it pull out.


That's what we call 'em up here as well.
 

Charles McWilliams

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I have encountered more often than I cared to, the drain chrome piece, cross. Is old, brittle and breaks out when attempting to unscrew it with the "dumbell" wrench (link sent above). Have had to carefully drive out, using a sharp cold chisel, being careful to not damage the porcelin or finish of the tub. Applying heat, before attempting to spin out the drain chrome, has preserved the drain cross.

It is best done with a helper. Removing the assembly is one thing. Attempting to allign the drain assembly and screw in the new drain chrome, is nearly impossible if you don't have a technique established.

I've perfected a method, though most often you are best to have a helper.
 

FullySprinklered

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I would try rebuilding the drain first, unless you know for a fact that the drain is cracked. Anyone charging that much for that job would likely tell you a lie about what the issue really is. Could be the putty has dried up and cracked or the drain overtightened and the washer distorted by a newbie. Or both.
 
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