Replacement water service questions:

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Dgeist

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I'm in the planning stages of replacement for my 55 year old cast iron water service. It's about a 50 foot run from the meter in the right-of-way to the basement wall of the home (cinder block full basement). I'm not a plumber, but have (most of) the skills to perform this myself, I just direct experience working with lines outside the structure.

My tentative materials list includes 1" CTS Endopure poly service line (or similar) and Mueller 110 series compression fittings for the majority of the run. The meter outlet is 3/4", but I believe having the 1" will help provide a more consistent working pressure before the delivery branches off into various 3/4" copper trunks inside the home. I have calculated approx 35-40 fixture units worth of demand. This sound reasonable?
https://terrylove.com/watersize.htm

I also have an irrigation tee right near the meter. I'll have to dig up the manifold/solenoids for the replacement, so in putting things back neat and tidy, is it typical to use bronze for the take-off from the meter, backflow fitting, tee to irrigation, then transition to poly immediately after? I think the irrigation is PVC based, but I don't want anything not rated for potable potentially backflowing, so my intent is to put in a backflow check valve and shut-off for the irrigation just after the tee (downstream of which can be PVC/cheap poly, etc.)

Similarly, is it typical to carry the poly service all the way through the basement wall and terminate inside or make a transition to a bronze leg just outside the structure for increased durability at the transition into the structure? I would assume it's pretty easy to fit everything together inside the structure and just pull it back through to avoid having to make poly terminations down in a muddy hole. I would want to use hydraulic cement to seal the block and suspect bronze is less prone to damage than poly in that regard.

Generally, should I get the 1" diameter path as close to the pressure regulator as possible once inside the home or can I transition back down to 3/4" copper one it's inside the structure if it's only a few feet?

Thanks in advance. I know there are a lot of question in there. Just trying to educate myself to see if this is a job I really want to tackle or call in the big (and expensive) guns of my favorite plumber.

Dan
 
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Terry

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Here we would need a 1" main from the 3/4" meter.
We're talking friction loss. A smaller pipe allows much less water.
The irrigation comes off the reduced pressure backflow preventer. PVC, Poly, PEX, Copper would be fine.
The new brass is fine too.
Here in Washington State we can bring poly through the foundation. I normally run copper through, taped to prevent contact with cement, and use a plugging cement mix to patch the hole.
 

Dgeist

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Okay...so faulty PVC premise aside, it sounds like the sizing was on track and protecting the pipe at the penetration was a reasonable thing to consider. Terry, I'm not familiar with the reduced pressure backflow preventer tee. Is that a combination assembly that takes the place of a few other components (like a tankless service valve kit)?

Thanks
Dan
 
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