Replace pneumatic tank with bladder type tank without removing bleeder valve?

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tkeoki

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So I'm looking to replace my old 120 gallon pressure tank with a new bladder tank probably with a CSV.

Currently, the tank has no air volume control. There is a check valve close to the well head with a snifter valve and a bleeder valve maybe 10 ft down the drop pipe. I'm not sure if the snifter valve is working. I have to add air to the tank a couple times a year.

Can I just remove the check valve with the snifter valve, and then replace the tank with a bladder tank? In other words, is it OK to leave the bleeder valve as I can't pull the pipe (350' 1 1/4" galvanized)?

Also, I should probably know this, but what's that thing on top of the well head?

2014-06-25 18.33.59a.jpg
 

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Craigpump

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That is an adjustable pressure relief valve.

You really should pull the pipe up and remove that bleeder orifice
 

LLigetfa

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You could probably be able to get away with simply putting a metal valve cap on the snifter and leave in in place but if you are installing a CSV, then you may as well remove it while the plumbing is apart. That looks like a pressure relief valve (PRV).

If you plan to install a CSV, the PRV needs to be after it. Also, the bleeder needs to be a good quality to withstand the higher pressure.
 

Valveman

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You could remove the check valve and put the CSV1A in it's place. And as LL said you need to remove the pressure relief valve and re-install in somewhere/anywhere after the CSV. If after all this the water leaks back when the pump is off, you will then have to pull the pipe up 10' and remove the bleeder.
 

tkeoki

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Thanks for the responses so far.

Quick info on well -- 4" 650' with screen near bottom, 2HP pump @ 350', static water level @ 270'. Located South-East of Dallas.

Is there a way to tell if the snifter, bleeder, and pressure relief valve are even working? Probably a dumb question, but why is the PRV needed in this setup?

Are there any downsides to switching from the pneumatic to the bladder tank? My water is pretty tame, except I get manganese bacteria in all my plumbing. The manganese level at the well head is only 0.02 ppm, but at the faucet is 0.06 ppm. Iron is only 0.01 ppm. Would the bladder tank help or exacerbate the manganese bacteria issue?

I have a geothermal hvac system, so with the bacteria, I need to run iron out through the coils twice a year or so. That bacteria issue is really the impetus in changing out the old tank.

Thanks
 

LLigetfa

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Are there any downsides to switching from the pneumatic to the bladder tank? My water is pretty tame, except I get manganese bacteria in all my plumbing. The manganese level at the well head is only 0.02 ppm, but at the faucet is 0.06 ppm. Iron is only 0.01 ppm. Would the bladder tank help or exacerbate the manganese bacteria issue?

When the airmaker is working as it should, it helps to get rid of some of the smell and also oxidizes the elements out of solution. I think the galvanized coating may also be a factor but that is just a guess.
 
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