Repl shower head using fpt coupling--Plan C:can't catch a break

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Al Goodrich

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Hi DIY'r newbie, so apologies upfront if the following includes plumbing description errors.
I purchased new shower head/arm before removing existing head. Removing it revealed that the shower head has a fpt connector--nipple with male threads is already installed in the wall. I'd rather not remove the nipple, and am hoping that I can just buy a fpt x fpt coupling, so I can install shower arm onto nipple. I understand that I'll need a flange that's deep enough to hide coupling. if this is a viable option, then is there anything that I need to consider (pressure) when purchasing the coupling? I'm asking because a brass coupling that I came across online had several bad reviews because it cracked after 1-2yrs. My other option is to purchase a shower head with female connection (what I currently have--arm looks more like bathtub faucet), but those typically require heads that are design to fit the arm, and I'm looking for something simple with an arm and a head. Thanks, al
 

Terry

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Normally you have female threads in the wall, with a shower arm that is male on both ends. A shower head would have female threads.

Any brass coupling should be fine. I can't imagine someone posting that theirs failed.
 

Al Goodrich

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Normally you have female threads in the wall, with a shower arm that is male on both ends. A shower head would have female threads.

Any brass coupling should be fine. I can't imagine someone posting that theirs failed.

The current head/arm is one assembly w/ female threads (more like a bathtub faucet with a shower head on the end). I'm assuming that the installer installed the nipple (extends beyond the wall about 1/2") onto the female threads in the wall, then screwed the shower head onto the nipple. I could try to remove the nipple so I can install the new shower arm, but I don't want to mess with the connection in the wall.

There were several posts (many saying they were plumbers) about the failing coupling.

Sioux Chief
1/2 in. Lead-Free Brass FPT x FPT Coupling
 

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Al Goodrich

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I decided against the coupling, as it would extend too far from the all. I've purchased a shower head that has two pieces; the arm, and something like a coupling (screw it onto nipple, then slide the arm onto it and secure with screw). Thought that was simplest solution (even really like the arm), but the nipple threads are damaged so that I can only install the arm's coupling about half way. I didn't want to remove the nipple, but it looks like I'll have to. I've ordered an internal pipe wrench (brass nipple is about 10yrs old, so I'm thinking (hoping) I won't have a problem removing). My question, I have plumber's tape (white), but do I also need to use (or should I only use) dope when I connect the new nipple to the elbow?
 
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hj

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Your posting indicates that you are having a LOT more trouble than a simple shower head replacement should cause. IF your shower arm has a "ball" with a nut to secure the head, then you have to replace the arm and the head. I cannot figure out WHY you are using or trying to use a coupling.
 

Reach4

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My questing, I have plumber's tape (white), but do I also need to use (or should I only use) dope when I connect the new nipple to the elbow?
Does the shower head have a cut-off, or do you only turn the shower off with the controls below? If the shower head does not have a cut-off, pressure will be lower. It won't matter much.

If the shower head can turn off the water, you might as well use tape+dope.

There is some good tape made from high-density PTFE ( sometimes Teflon brand material). The cheapest tape is low density. Many don't think it makes a difference. I bought the pink Oatey, which is a high-density tape, and is visually distinctive AFAIK. The price premium is small on an absolute basis, but not percentage-wise. I am not a plumber.
 

Al Goodrich

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Your posting indicates that you are having a LOT more trouble than a simple shower head replacement should cause. IF your shower arm has a "ball" with a nut to secure the head, then you have to replace the arm and the head. I cannot figure out WHY you are using or trying to use a coupling.

My original shower head is a one piece shower head/arm. When its spray began to fail, I purchased a shower head and a standard shower arm. When I removed existing shower head, it revealed that a nipple was installed. Since both the shower arm that I purchased and the nipple in the wall are both male, I considered using s coupling (I didn't want to remove the nipple). From my last post, I have purchased an arm that has its own coupling that should have easily screwed onto the nipple in the wall. However, I did not realize that the plumber had damaged some of the threads on the nipple, so I am only able to install the new shower arm coupling about half as far as it needs to go. So, although I wanted to avoid removing the nipple, it appears that that's my only option. I have purchased an internal pipe wrench to remove the nipple, and am now asking if I should use plumber's tape (which I have, white), pipe dope, or both when installing the new nipple (at the elbow in the wall). Since this connection is in the wall, I obviously want to ensure that I do what is needed to avoid leaks. BTW, hole in the tile isn't much larger than the nipple, making it difficult (impossible?) for me to check for leaks.
 

Al Goodrich

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Does the shower head have a cut-off, or do you only turn the shower off with the controls below? If the shower head does not have a cut-off, pressure will be lower. It won't matter much.

If the shower head can turn off the water, you might as well use tape+dope.

There is some good tape made from high-density PTFE ( sometimes Teflon brand material). The cheapest tape is low density. Many don't think it makes a difference. I bought the pink Oatey, which is a high-density tape, and is visually distinctive AFAIK. The price premium is small on an absolute basis, but not percentage-wise. I am not a plumber.

The shower head does have a cut-off, but the shower controls include separate on/off volume control. so I'm not sure that I'd ever use the head's cut-off. I'm thinking that I'll use the white tape that I have, and pick up some dope to apply over the tape--just to err on the side of caution.
 

Jadnashua

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Either pipe dope OR tape should work fine by itself, but it won't hurt if you use both. The quality of fittings on some things these days is less than spec, so both can offer a bit more insurance.
 

Al Goodrich

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Well I tried to remove the nipple w/ the internal extractor (cam style--great tool), but could not get the nipple to budge. Tried dousing w/ WD40 several times, but no go. So unless anyone has a tip on how to loosen the nipple, I'm moving on to Plan C, which is to try to find a decorative flange to hide the 1/4" gab between the base of shower arm (2.5") and wall.
 

Reach4

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Well I tried to remove the nipple w/ the internal extractor (cam style--great tool), but could not get the nipple to budge.
I presume you were limited by your fear of doing damage inside the wall.

... I'm moving on to Plan C, which is to try to find a decorative flange to hide the 1/4" gab between the base of shower arm (2.5") and wall.
Try using escutcheon as your search term term, rather than flange.
 

Al Goodrich

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I presume you were limited by your fear of doing damage inside the wall.


Try using escutcheon as your search term term, rather than flange.

yeah, I was applying quite a bit of force on the wrench, and when it would budge, I decided that I didn't want to risk a problem in the wall--especially if I can locate an escutcheon (which does get a lot more hits than flange, thanks) that will make the assembly look nicely finished--don't want it to look "mickey moused" :).
 
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