Removing concrete from well seal

Users who are viewing this thread

petepdx

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Portland, OR USA
A upcoming part of my saga requires the well to be 'shocked'

This is a property and its well that has not occupied for close to 15 years.

One would not think that this would be a hassle but the previous installer in his wisdom "sealed" his work by slapping left over concrete all over the well seal and even the 1" galvanized tee.

I ordered via HomeDepot a product that is advertised to dissolve concrete by breaking down the portland cement. It basically did nothing other then clean things up a bit.

A couple pictures from about a month ago

http://goo.gl/NzRZGg

A lot more soil has been removed since this set of pictures.

Anyone know of a product that works or should I just get out a good stone chisel and sweat a bit ?
-pete

PS Why would someone install the pipe so low ?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
Your photos are asking for a login.

I infer that the well is pumping water.

Well casing done today should be sticking out of the ground maybe a foot. If this seal was below ground level, I suspect the person wanted to stop contamination through the leaky well seal.

I would not try to remove the concrete chemically. Take pictures in case it works. That has to be really slow. If you hammer, protect your eyes and more. You might consider hiring that out to somebody used to breaking concrete. Further you might want to do some further well repairs.

http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing is my favorite disinfection method.
 

petepdx

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Portland, OR USA
Your photos are asking for a login.

> I infer that the well is pumping water.

Yes, the pump is old but I've got about 2 years in front of me before I sell the place. I'm invest in replacing the rest of the system now, and will replace the pump next year. $'s are the reason.

> Well casing done today should be sticking out of the ground maybe a foot. If this seal was below ground level, I suspect the person wanted to stop contamination through the leaky well seal.

I totally agree, and would love it sticking out, not only that the PE pipe is exposed. A real sloppy job. Asking around it seems the company that drilled the well, etc have been around since the 1920's, they seem to have the reputation of being cheap.

>I would not try to remove the concrete chemically. Take pictures in case it works. That has to be really slow. If you hammer, protect your eyes and more. You might consider hiring that out to somebody used to breaking concrete. Further you might want to do some further well repairs.

http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing is my favorite disinfection method.

Photo's should now be public

the product I used has a MSDS that is OK, but I agree, time to dig out the chisels.

Basically it looks like the well installer made a pad around the well pipe and then "sealed" everything up with what concrete he had left over,
things like rather then using a wire gland for the wires, he just slopped more of the concrete around the opening.

I read the above method and have prepared to do as it instructs. If the 'scribble' on the well log is correct I have is correct there is (was?) 190 feet of standing water in 6" pipe. To get a supply of vinegar + bleach water ready, I've acquired a 250 gallon IBC tote that originally contained Fructose. They go for around $25-50 in our neck of the woods, and can be purchased the day they have been emptied.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
You have a shallow pit. See the mud on the bottom? Dirty water gets into the mini-pit. Do you see the mark of the high-water level in the pit? Does that exactly correspond to the height of the top of the casing or well seal? That could be explained by the water rising until it is able to leak into the well. Maybe you could have the well seal replaced where it is to make it waterproof, but extend the vent out above ground. That is not permitted some places, because they want you to bring the casing above ground to prevent contamination via leaky well seals.

How far down is the pump? What material is the big fitting in the middle of the well seal?

The right fix is to get some more casing welded (if the casing is steel) so the casing comes about a foot above ground. If the casing is PVC, I expect that could be extended even easier. But what about freezing? If that is a problem where you are you could go to a pitless adapter.

Regarding the concrete, I might start tapping sideways (parallel to the top of the well seal) using an old flat-blade screwdriver as a chisel.
 

Craigpump

In the Trades
Messages
2,436
Reaction score
158
Points
63
Location
Connecticut
Lovely....

The best thing to do is have someone come in pull that mess apart, extend the casing, install a pitless adapter and then chlorinate the well.

If it hasnt frozen yet, it won't in the future.

It's low because someone didn't want to see the casing.
 

petepdx

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Portland, OR USA
Here's where I'm at

http://goo.gl/fhiykD

The PE pipe from the well into the garage is only a few inches below grade, it does freeze, only a few months ago it dropped to below 0F for one night.

Sadly I've found out a few things where the property is. The local "pump man" felt that a job like this was just fine, even proud of his thriftiness.
Some of the other shops in the area have been around just as long and just sigh when I mention who did the work. Anyway I'm going to give a
couple places a call and get a quote.

-pete .. what next ...
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
One of your new pictures seems to present a whole different view. That one makes it look like the top of the casing is above ground level. Is that the case, and if so, by how much? That would seem a lot better than having the casing below ground level as I was thinking.

Did you find out how far down the pump is?
 

Attachments

  • pix_3.GIF
    pix_3.GIF
    50.7 KB · Views: 376

petepdx

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Portland, OR USA
Grade is approx the top of the rectangular box, or a couple inches down from the top. The current level is from the effect of a couple shovels
 
Last edited:

petepdx

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Portland, OR USA
One of your new pictures seems to present a whole different view. That one makes it look like the top of the casing is above ground level. Is that the case, and if so, by how much? That would seem a lot better than having the casing below ground level as I was thinking.

Did you find out how far down the pump is?
Well is dug to 275 feet, 1" galvanized, comes to 700 lbs ?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
Replacing the galvanized drop pipe with schedule 80 PVC is probably a good idea. Replacing galvanized fittings with brass or stainless is another good idea. The question would be should they use schedule 80 PVC couplings to hold the pieces of PVC together, or stainless steel couplings. My well people replaced the existing PVC couplings on the drop pipe with stainless when they extended my casing.

The pros will get in and do it in less than a day. You will be glad it is done right. Yes, it will cost (maybe 2 thousand plus the price of a new pump if you get one) I would guess, but think of the fact that you don't pay monthly water bills. My guess is not an educated guess.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks