Removing Cast Iron with limited access

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youngin

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First just a quick note - I appreciate all the wisdom shared by the experienced users of the forum. I just bought my first house and have ran into some unexpected big plumbing issues when I initially thought I was just going to replace the kitchen cabinets. I enjoy the journey of learning new skills through trial and error, but the advice I've read has not only saved me money and time but also likely prevented some injuries. So thank you, and on to my dilema.

My home is 90+ years and I've replaced nearly all of the wet stacks. It was a combo of cast iron and galvinized steel. I properly supported, cut, and replaced everything except one 4" cast iron stack which is dedicated to the 2nd story toliet. It is a vertical pipe from the basement to the roof with a single T-connector, no clean out. There appears to be no damage to the pipe but based on how clogged the other pipes were, I'd like to remove it while the pipe is exposed. My problem is that it is located in the corner of the house and I do not have sufficient room on 2 sides to place a riser clamp and access it with a chain cutter. Per other's advice I figure I can cut it with a sawzall, but I'm still left with how to support it for cutting. It rests against two load bearing walls. I'm a dorky engineer by day and have access to a CNC mill and a bunch of other toys, and I have a few ideas of how to rig something up, BUT i figure I'm not the only person to have this issue so there has to be a common fix for it.

Any thoughts? -thanks
 

hj

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Ci

There is probably a "common fix" for it, but in your case every situation would have a different common fix. It is usually a "by the job" solution.
 

youngin

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Are there special clamps for pipes that are too close to the wall? I have enough room for the metal thickness of the riser clamp, but I can not get the 'U' portion between the gap.
 

Asktom

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The vertical drop from a second story toilet is not a very likely spot to ever have a clog. I'd leave it alone unless there is a known problem.
 

Otis

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A photo of what you're talking about might prompt some more suggestions. If this is a "must do" project, you could possibly drill a hole through the pipe and fashion some sort of support that way.
 

youngin

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Attached is a before picture of the kitchen on the 1st floor. Directly above is the bathroom, and there is a full basement below. Pipe A and the top half of B are the only ones that I haven’t replaced. Pipe A is the one I'm having problems supporting.

A – Runs vertical from roof to basement. 2nd floor and basement toilets tie into it.
B – Vent for basement toilet. Tees into A about 3 feet above the 2nd floor toilet. This had severe lime deposits and pin holes the entire length.
C – Runs nearly vertical from roof to basement. 2nd Floor sink drains to it and Kitchen sink (D) mates to it below the kitchen floor. This was completely occluded. During the inspection it drained fine but when I removed the cabinets, part of the wall came off and I noticed tumors all along the pipe. I have no clue how it managed to drain.
D - Kitchen Sink drain
E – The vent for D. Ties in below the kitchen floor

Pipe A doesn’t appear to be in bad condition, however I have a few drops of water at the top left of the picture, which is close to the hub connector. Since there’s no cleanout I have no clue if its clogged as bad as C. I’d hate to remodel the kitchen and in 2 years have to tear part of it apart because I didn’t fix a problem now.
 

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Doherty Plumbing

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I am loving the s-trap on the kitchen sink line!!!!!

As for removing that piping (A) I would also say just leave it in there. Like pointed out it's very unlikely you're going to get a clog in that section of piping. Most vertical sections of pipe don't get clogged up. It's the horizontal runs at the bottom that collect most of the "stuff". But verticals can clog it's just not very likely. It's usually stuff building up the drain from the bottom up.

But for a solution on how to support it I would place some wood between the 4" soil-or-waste stack and the joists to it's left. I'd then attach the wood to the joist and strap the cast to the wood. Possibly use 2 2x4's laid togeather would work. Do this in 2 or three spots.
 
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Spaceman Spiff

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If you really want to remove it a hand sledge should do it. Cast iron is brittle and should break into large chunks if hit in the middle of the section. Once you get the top piece out you can disassemble the rest. The plus side of cast iron is that you hear water a lot less in CI than plastic. In hotels I design I call out CI for just that reason.
 

youngin

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Thanks DP - I think I'm going to send a camera down it to check it out before I do anything drastic. (A Polaroid with a string attached to it, right?)
Pulling that pipe out would also require me ripping out part of the bathroom right above it. Between the tiles and plaster, I'd like to avoid it if at all possible.

That P trap is beautiful isn't it. It iritates me b/c the old owner's contractor "fixed" it 5 years ago. I can't stand people who half a$$ stuff to save a buck today regardless of what comes tomorrow. This is the same guy who attached the cabinets with 2 top screws and a ton of liquid nail.
 

youngin

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If you really want to remove it a hand sledge should do it. Cast iron is brittle and should break into large chunks if hit in the middle of the section. Once you get the top piece out you can disassemble the rest. The plus side of cast iron is that you hear water a lot less in CI than plastic. In hotels I design I call out CI for just that reason.


Good point. What are your thoughts on wrapping the PVC pipes with insulation?
 

Hackney plumbing

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Good point. What are your thoughts on wrapping the PVC pipes with insulation?

Use sheetlead if your going to wrap it for a near silent system.. If you choose to do just regular insualtion anyway do not let the pvc contact the drywall or the framing members,as this will transmit noise. Goodluck!:)
 
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