Removing and installing wall to wall tubs?

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by patrick181, Mar 23, 2011.

  1. patrick181

    patrick181 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Missouri
    Hey guys first post here. Brief introduction, Im an IT contractor and have worked in building maintenance for 10 years in the far past. I do all of my own handywork. I can do everything well, especially good with millwork, plumbing and electrical...but I have not done a tub yet.

    I have a 5' wide cookie cutter bathroom with an 80's fiberglass tub/shower one piece combo. I will be "sawzalling" it out and replacing it with an Americast tub and either tile or marble panel surrounds. My question is since the tub is basically stud to stud in the bathroom (wider than the drywalled area), will I need to destroy all of the walls to get the new one in it in? I am hoping to save the walls by walking the new tub into place vertically and flipping it down into place.

    [video=youtube;gx2QTY7oipQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gx2QTY7oipQ[/video]

    If you watch this video you'll see the exact situation I will be dealing with. In fact, thats the same tub. You will see a remark on the video which asks the same question but the answer doesn't tell me a whole lot. If you have experience with this let me know what you did.

    Thanks.
  2. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    That will work as long as the apron at the rear of the tub can drop into the stud bay.

    John
  3. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    You will need some demo. It will easier to visualize when you have the tub on site. It will start out on its side. And as mentioned, you can plan for the tub apron to slide down beteen studs until the tub is horizontal and plumb with the walls.

    Basically , it is a geometry exercise, and can be done. There will of necessity be some wall repair....no worries mate.
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,267
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    If you have a 6" wall, there may be enough distance to drop it down, if it is 4", the apron will hit the other side of the wall before it is in position. I always "roll" the tubs in while they are laying on the floor. It takes less "manpower" to do it that way.
  5. patrick181

    patrick181 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Missouri
    It's 5' (foot) wide stud to stud or 60" like the new tub. So yes Im concerned as to if the apron will have enough room when I flip it down considering the other side of the wall. What I'll have to do is measure diagonally the lower left corner of the apron to the upper right corner where the tile flange is to get the maximum width. Kind of like how you would a measure a TV screen. Since the the wall stud to stud is 60" plus the width of the studs is 3.5" this gives me 63.5" of clearance. If the tub is wider than this it wont work and I'll have to cut the tile flange or demo the walls adding days to my project.
  6. SacCity

    SacCity In the Trades

    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Normally it is a tight fit but I have always been able to shoehorn in a new tub on the remodel.
    I've used the Americast tubs a few times, I like that they are easy to handle in comparison to cast iron.
    Not as tinny as steel. They also retain heat better in a bath than steel, not as well as the gold standard Cast Iron.
    In all I've found them to be a nice compromise.
    Michael
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 6, 2011
  7. patrick181

    patrick181 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Missouri
    Well the tub is 60"x14" So if I do the math for the diagonal width it's 61.6". That gives me 1.9" to work with before I poke the apron corner through the other side of the wall so guess Im good.
  8. patrick181

    patrick181 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Missouri
    Well the tub is 60"x14" So if I do the math for the diagonal width it's 61.6". That gives me 1.9" to work with before I poke the apron corner through the other side of the wall so guess I'm good.
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,267
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    A 16" tub would be tight, but a 14" one will work, it will also be lighter and easier to handle, although the "easier" part may be relative.
  10. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    I'm always amazed at how people worry about a little bit of drywall repair, yet they want to install MARBLE tub surrounds..
Similar Threads: Removing installing
Forum Title Date
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Removing a tub and installing a shower Aug 26, 2005
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog help removing 2 Grohe shower tub handles with no screws! Nov 2, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog removing overflow on cast iron tub obstructed by tabs Sep 11, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Removing a Rusting Wall Anchor from a Travertine Shower Wall Jul 7, 2014
Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog Removing Stuck Shower Arm and Drain Dec 18, 2013

Share This Page