Rebuilding Price Phister Avante Single Shower Hot/Cold Valve

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Confused E

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Hi. I have a single shower valve with a slow drip on the hot side of the shut off valve, please see attached picture. The body of the valve has "7105" on top.

I am wondering if these shut off valves can be rebuilt, perhaps a rebuild kit can be purchased from a local hardware store? Or am I majorly SOL where I have to replace the whole shower valve?

Back story:
Originally I needed to change the cartridge. Since I live in a condo complex, I didn't want to shut off the whole unit's water source. I decided to shut those two valves off in order to replace the cartridge, and there was no leaks in the hot and cold shut off valves. Now with the hot side of the water all the closed, I noticed water slowly coming out from the area where it has the internal thread. The whole shower valve is rather old, ~20+ years.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks.

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hj

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Repair the faucet and turn the water back on. It will probably not leak when you turn it back on, because the water that is leaking out is from the shower side of the valve not the pressure side.
 

Confused E

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Repair the faucet and turn the water back on. It will probably not leak when you turn it back on, because the water that is leaking out is from the shower side of the valve not the pressure side.

Thanks for the reply. Sorry forgot to mention in my original post that I have replaced the cartridge. Turned the water back on and the hot shut off valve still drips.

Any idea? Thanks.
 

Terry

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The eight sided part is the bonnet nut. You may be able to snug that up and stop the leak.
That's on the incoming water to the faucet.
 

Confused E

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Thanks hj and Terry for the advice. I will give it a turn on the bonnet nut, although I'm suspecting a faulty o-ring as mentioned by hj. If only there's a schematic layout of the shut off valve, so I can order the proper seals for the repair. Just don't want to hassle the neighbors about shutting off the water multiple times.

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Confused E

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So I checked Pfister's website and found an parts explosion drawing of their current single handle shower valve. It seems like they do sell the rebuild kit for the stop valve. Hopefully, this modern version is interchange to my 20 years old valve. I will be contacting Pfister tomorrow!!

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Jadnashua

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If you don't want to take the cartridge out, you could wrap part of the valve body with a damp rag. Depends on your skill level and how hot your torch is how long you need to be on the thing before it's hot enough to solder. A lower temp torch means more time for the heat to migrate. A hotter torch, the socket gets hot enough before you get as much heat migrating.
 

Confused E

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Thanks smooky and jadnashua.

I spoke to one of Pfister's representatives today. He was able to tell me that my shower valve was an obsolete 0X9-series. The assembly for the shut off valve is no longer available. However, the seals for the valve are STILL available. He went ahead and shipped me two sets so I can repair the hot side and replace the cold side.

On top of that, he is also sending me a additional cartridge and a new retaining nut for the cartridge.

I hope these seals are the correct ones. I did notice on the drawing that the valve has number "7199" on it versus mine has "7105".

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Jayme101007

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Hi all,

Confused E, any updates? Seems we share the same dinosaur of a valve. However, mine appears to be upside down. Or is yours?

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Smooky

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Is your valve being used for a shower only or do you have both a shower and a tub spout? If it is just a shower sometimes the valves are installed up side down to get more flow to the shower head.
 
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Jayme101007

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Is your valve being used for a shower only or do you have both a shower and a tub spout? If it is just a shower sometimes the valves are installed up side down to get more flow to the shower head.

Hmm, I am supposed to have both based on the hardware on the wall but ever since I moved in, the tub spout has been without a diverter. Something I am in the process of remedying, along with updating the trim.
 

Confused E

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I also replaced the integral valves. The right one is the hot side and the left one is the cold side. However, I wouldn't recommend touching the integral valves if they are not leaking.

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Confused E

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Replaced with Price Pfister Integral Stop with Packing: part # 910-671.

The only difference is the extra o-ring that wasn't on the original. Also on the original, the nut on the cold side is longer. However, with the new nut and the packing washer. It makes up the difference. Other than that, everything is identical.

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Confused E

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As for the shower cartridge valve itself. That's simply a part you can pick up from Home Depot, part # S74-292. ~$20 for OEM and ~$10 for non-OEM. Or you can call Pfister and they will send you one free of charge.
 

hj

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There is really NO "upside down". It depends on what you are doing with it. The "cartridge" is either right side up or upside down to put the hot and cold opening on the right sides depending on how the piping is installed.
 

Jayme101007

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Great news! When I opened up this shower though, there was a considerable amount of mud lodged in the handle body and on the back of the plate and surface of the valve. This concerns me. Should it? Since moving in, I've heard the pipes in this condo neighborhood are subject to frequent leaks and failures. Already, in 3 months, we had a slab leak and a ceiling drip from the print of the toilet above ours.
 
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Jayme101007

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What, if anything can I do to mitigate these issues? The HOA has voted to replace the pipes but we still have no timeframe for when that will happen.
 
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