Raising toilet Flange

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Chris Wagner

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Hello,

I'm putting in a tile floor in this bathroom and from reading on here it seems its better to raise the flange rather than use extenders.

However when I went to take a look at current setup it looks like the flange has been broken for some time now and seems like the 90 elbow goes directly to the flange.

How should I go about raising the flange? Or should I just use extender which Im not sure I could even do considering its broken. Thanks in advance
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Reach4

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What is the ID of that inside hole?
 

FullySprinklered

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Install/reinstall the metal ring, install the tile board and tile, use two wax rings when the toilet goes back in. Too bad the flange is broken, but the repair ring covers it.
 

FullySprinklered

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Yes, (grits teeth). That broken flange is ugly, but considering the work and expense of replacing it, that's my advice. You'd have to cut out the 3X2 Wye and reconnect it if you went all the way and removed the existing flange and the elbow that's glued directly into it. Make it easy on yourself, dude, it'll work just fine. It's a repair, not a new install.

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Reach4

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It may be would be worth measuring to see if the Sioux Chief 888-GPM would fit what you have. It might be too long for your situation.

http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/pushtite says that the 888-GPM (PVC) or 888-GAM (ABS) is a 3" inside fit gasket with SS swivel ring, 4"-long tailpiece toilet flange.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?posts/449676/

However the idea of the repair ring and lots of wax would probably work great. I would work the wax in around the broken area with my gloved fingers rather than just smushing rings.
 

Reach4

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If you went with the stainless ring you showed in the photos or any other flange over the remains of the existing broken flange, I would add wax under the the stainless flange and above the broken PVC flange. That would be in addition to the wax or waxless seal that you add above the new flange.
 

Jadziedzic

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If you're feeling adventurous perhaps try to rent a "Ram Bit" to drill out the spigot end of the flange - or find a local plumber who might be willing to do it for you. Then glue in a short piece of straight PVC and use an outside mount flange.
 

Chris Wagner

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After reading more on here I see that the double wax ring method is preferred over the extension spacers silicone together,

However Im trying to understand a little more. I do not have the toilet on hand(drake 2) but since the finished floor will sit about 1"-1.25" higher than previous will the actual horn of the toilet be inside exiting flange? Or does the wax act as a barrier for water getting out? Hope that makes sense
 

Reach4

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However I'm trying to understand a little more. I do not have the toilet on hand(drake 2) but since the finished floor will sit about 1"-1.25" higher than previous will the actual horn of the toilet be inside exiting flange? Or does the wax act as a barrier for water getting out? Hope that makes sense

The horn of the toilet will not extend below the level of the floor, and will probably be something higher than the floor.

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I don't remember if I thought I had a good picture of what is going on in your case. IMO, flange extender would hold up to intense plunging than would a stack of wax. If you use a stack of wax, the top one should have its own plastic horn.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/which-toilet-seal.61722/#post-457287 Note that with wax, you need to be able to put the toilet down without lifting it back. A pro can do that due to skill and practice. As a novice, I think something else would be better for you. I don't know what the maximum depth the Sani Seal can be used to by stacking. I would like to hope that could go 1.25 inches below the floor, but I am disappointed that I cannot find a specification.

In the YouTube video below, at minute 2:20 they say the Sani Seal can be stacked if the flange is 3/8 or more below the floor. However they don't say how far down 2 can go, and they don't say you can stack 3...


The video does discuss supplementing with silicone glue for some cases.
 
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Chris Wagner

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My case- new tile floor going in with additional height old flange will be about 1" below finished floor. Existing flange is broke but repair ring is/was installed. I have access to below but because of configuration there is alot of work to redo.

Thanks for that diagram. So in the case of using double wax rings the horn on the toilet is above the flange, then I assume the wax acts as a better barrier than using flange spacers?
 

Reach4

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So in the case of using double wax rings the horn on the toilet is above the flange, then I assume the wax acts as a better barrier than using flange spacers?
I definitely did not intend to convey that, so presumably you were referring to some other post. I thought I expressed concern that strong plunging could blow out a wax stack. I think Set-Rite Toilet Flange Extender looks interesting. I have no experience with that or any other such extender. If I used an extender, I would put wax or some other filler under the extender, as well as above.
 

Jadnashua

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I think that I'd try a Ram-bit, or a similar tool and ream out the old flange from the hub on the 90 below. Then, a short stub of straight pipe, and you could then mount your new flange on top of it. Many of the toilet flanges have a hub on them as well (i.e., a 'stop' built in), but, you can find them that are more like a repair coupling (i.e., nothing to stop sliding the pipe through). If you use one of those AFTER you've installed the tile, and left enough room around the pipe so that the flange would slide on, you could leave the pipe sticking up through the floor long, then when done with the tile, prime and cement and slide the new flange down, tight on top of the new floor. Then, cut off the pipe that sticks through (no super accurate determining the length required beforehand!). It's easiest if you mark where the screws go on the flange, and notch the tile rather than trying to drill holes in it later.
 

Chris Wagner

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I looked into that, my only worry is if it doesnt work out great I have ruined current setup and would need to go back pretty far to redo everything
 
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