Raising toilet flange

[Ephil]

My toilet flange sits below grade from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. It is tilted slightly from side to side. It is made from ABS as is the piping. I am installing ceramic tile and need to raise the flange. Any advice on how to do this? It is obviously glued in place, and the concrete meets right up to the flange. I thought about using a dremmel, but was afraid I would cut into the elbow. There were at least 3 wax rings under there when I pulled the toilet. I certainly don't want to add #4.

Thanks,

Phil

 

[Jadnashua]

You might want to bite the bullet and break up some concrete, replace a section of pipe, and adjust that pipe to where it should be. While you are down there, you can true it up so everything will be nice and level. Ideally, when you are finished you would install a new flange on top of the finished floor, and anchored through it into the slab. It should sit flat on the floor with no gaps under it.

They make these for ABS and in PVC

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ephil]

Any recomendations on how to break up the slab? Maybe dril a circle with a masonary bit and hammer drill, then knock it out? Slabs are quite thick aren't they?

 

[Prashster]

Isn't there a tool for reaming out the remains of a flange once you cut it flush? I'd try that route first.

If you have to bust the 'crete, it won't be a major op for that little bit. I'd rent an SDSMax rotary hammer with a drill bit and a chisel bit. Drill 1" holes in a 2ft circle around the flange and part of the drain. Switch to the chisel bit and chip out the center. It'll take some time, but is easier on the back and wallet than a full-fledged j-hammer. This method won't create any dust, either.

Circ saw w masonry blade no good. You'll spend most of yr time changing blades and being frustrated that you can only do 1" at a time b4 ruining the blade. You can get a diamond blade and cut it dry, but the dust will make you regret it within 30 secs.