Raising brass toilet flange

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by TonyD, Mar 22, 2010.

  1. TonyD

    TonyD New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto
    I will be installing a new floor and need to raise the brass flange for the toilet about 3/4 to 1 inch so it will be level with the new tiles.

    The flange is in excellent shape (see attached) but I'm not sure how to remove and raise. Is the flange soldered on so all I need to do is apply a propane torch and 'sweat' it off to reset?

    Thanks in advance.

    Tony

    Attached Files:

  2. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,349
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    What kind of pipe is the drain? If the drain lines are copper, then the flange can be removed by heat. However, I seriously doubt if you can apply sufficient heat to it. As to just resetting the flange, it would have to have a neck long enough. Then, a flange is supposed to rest on top of the finished floor not level with it so it should not be installed until the finished floor is down. I would not worry so much about saving that flange although it does appear to be in good shape, but concentrate on getting a flange that is installed properly. In my opinion, you should seek professional help on this one.
  3. TonyD

    TonyD New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thanks Gary. It is all copper underneath. I managed to remove the flange with the propane torch, revealing a short stack (2 14/") of 3" copper pipe which is soldered into an elbow. I can easily replace the 3" pipe with a longer piece to achieve the desired height (good point about the flange resting on top of the finished floor).
  4. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    After installing the new flange be sure to screw it to the floor.

    John
  5. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,349
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Having all copper does simplify the task, but soldering 3" pipe requires a lot of heat and a tad more skill than joining 1/2", 3/4", or 1". You could use a no-hub connector and avoid soldering at least around the floor. These are the connectors that have a full stainless steel covering, not just the neoprene sleeve with 2 hose clamps.
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