Radiant Supply Panel Questions

Discussion in 'HVAC Heating & Cooling' started by Leaky1, Dec 25, 2011.

  1. Leaky1

    Leaky1 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    California
    I am finally ready to move ahead with the supplemental heating system for our master bathroom tile floor. The Joist Trak has been installed in the joist bays below the master bath and the 1/2†Uponor hePEX has been run. I am now ready to work on the radiant supply panel. It will be located in our garage next to the AO Smith 100K BTU Vertex Water Heater. I will utilize the Taco X-Pump Block and will follow their installation recommendations.

    [​IMG]


    I laid the components out on a piece of plywood to get started.

    [​IMG]


    Using the height of the Taco X-Pump Block secured directly to the plywood I find the rest of the system components land at the following heights above the plywood:

    • Expansion tank is flush with the plywood surface.
    • Uponor manifold bracket is 2-1/4†above the plywood surface.
    • Air separator body is 3†above the plywood surface.


    I have the following questions:
    1. Is a sheet of plywood the best way to secure these components to a wall?
    2. All of the components between the Taco X-Pump Block and Uponor manifold are unsupported. What is the best way to support them? I have not been able to find any adjustable standoff supports for copper pipe.
    3. I would like to add unions to the radiant side of the Taco X-Pump Block for easy servicing. How reliable are copper sweat unions? Is one brand more reliable than another? I found a manufacturer of copper sweat unions with an o-ring seal, but their cost was prohibitive.


    Thanks for taking the time to read my post and consider my questions.
  2. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    I would put the check valve in the return line so it is exposed to less heat and blocks the cold supply from ever sending water in the wrong way, but maybe you have a better reason for placing it where it is.

    The plywood seems fine to me, and I occasionally make standoffs by boring a right-sized hole in the center of a right-width block of wood a couple of inches long and then cutting (ripping) through the center of the hole to make two standoffs with grain parallel to the mounting surface.
  3. Leaky1

    Leaky1 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    California
    The system schematic shown in my post above is from the Taco X-Pump Block installation manual. I am just following the instructions from Taco’s design engineers for the placement of a check valve in the primary side. See Page 2 of the Taco X-Pump Block manual. Click link below.

    http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-202.pdf

    I plan to use a wood block to raise the Uponor manifold and will consider using a wooden standoff for the piping.

    Thanks
  4. BadgerBoilerMN

    BadgerBoilerMN Master Hot Water Mpls,MN

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    Well not exactly. The PRV is always the first fitting off any heat source and the most important part of any water heating unit as it it the main safety feature.
    The orientation of the valve is also important as a plugged safety relief valve, isn't.h

    The check is correct. How refreshing to see people reading an installation manual even if they don't understand it.
  5. Leaky1

    Leaky1 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    California
    When I laid out the components I mentioned to my wife I thought the PRV should be located on the secondary output side of the Taco X-Pump Block, but who am I to disagree with the Taco design engineers. I do plan to call them when they reopen after the holiday to confirm the setup they recommend in their installation manual.
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