Questions regarding placement of test ball...

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by 1smartass, Jun 10, 2013.

  1. 1smartass

    1smartass In the Trades

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    Following is an image of the plumbing in question: http://i.imgur.com/LQZqRh6.jpg

    So where I tied in is 5' away from a clean out/test fitting that's part of the installation. Is it possible to get a test ball to the mission fitting? Will a test ball seal against the sides of the existing 50 year old CI pipe? I'm assuming if I can't get a test ball to that location, the best bet would be placing in a tee where the mission fitting is right now?

    Also if there's a better way to post images in this forum, let me know. I'm a noob to this kind of online communication. Thanks in advance.
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,125
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    For testing, they don't normally worry about the least fitting.

    [​IMG]

    But if you did, it would look something like this

    [​IMG]
  3. 1smartass

    1smartass In the Trades

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    Good to know I don't have to try to seal up in that CI, thanks. Do you think I can work a donkey **** (Yeah, I know plumber specific slang) in to the tee wye in the following image?: http://i.imgur.com/HhxixRK.jpg Image is a poor angle, but linear distance from tee down into outlet of wye is about 4 feet. If not, I'll dig my sand out near my connection to the CI and splice in an ABS no hub tee.

    My sis is having a home built right now, and I noticed her plumber had a screw in each of his plumbing knockout test caps. Was that to let air out so the pipes would fill with water? Is that normal practice among plumbers who use disposable glue-in knockouts?
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,831
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    test

    What are you trying to accomplish? The test plug/ball goes into different locations depending ow what you are trying to test. The screw is probably to hold the tast cap when he breaks it out, but it was put in after the test, because it would not have held water otherwise.
  5. 1smartass

    1smartass In the Trades

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    He had screws in all of them as the water was still in the system. They were screwed all the way down, and no water was leaking from them. I'm capping off where I tied into an existing 4" CI trunkline, and testing my under slab work. I'm doing an addition, and moved a toilet, and added a shower, giant soaking tub, and lav. I'm using the disposable knockouts to seal where I've stubbed out, and hoping I can reach a tee wye from my cleanout/test plug. I moved the toilet 45 degrees, but used the same area used for the old stack that the old toilet was hooked up to. The wall the toilet is now against is a foundation wall, so rather than chip that out, I plumbed to where the old toilet was plumbed.
  6. 1smartass

    1smartass In the Trades

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    California
    Yeah, I just talked to my sisters plumber. He put screws in all the caps to let the air out as he filled it with water. He used drywall screws, believe it or not, and no, they didn't leak. You don't do that? If there is air in there, and the water doesn't drop, the desired effect is still there, you've proved it doesn't leak.
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