Whiteland
New Member
Hello,
Recently my water heater quit working. After several attempts, I finally have a new one installed in the attic. It's not working yet because the plumbers didn't know how to connect the 3 phase wiring to my single phase residential service. While I wait on the electrician to get here, I thought I would ask you all some questions about the installation.
It is a 40 gallon AO Smith Conservationist model PXHT-40 Series 200.
What I noticed first is that the plumbers straightened the existing hard copper lines. The only way to explain it is to show you.
previous GE water heater copper lines curved
new AOS water heater copper lines straightened
The old GE water heater was 47 inches tall. The new AOS is 60 inches tall. The gate valve was leaking so they put a new ball valve on the cold water supply line. Why lean it like that? Why not just take the original set up, straighten them up a little and add more hard copper line going to the left to the water heater? Should this be re-done?
The "factory-supplied" T&P valve was not in the box. The plumber had one on his truck and installed it. I found the package after they left and this valve has a 2 inch probe/thermometer. This model water heater has 3 inches of insulation. Should I leave it or have it replaced with the T&P valve from AO Smith that has a 3 inch probe/thermometer?
That brings us to the Brasscraft 18 inch copper flex lines with dielectric sleeve. You can see in the above photo, the flex lines on the AOS are touching the water heater. It looks to me like the new ones are bent too severely and could restrict the water flow. Will the sleeve crack or break at this bend over time?
previous GE flex
new AOS flex
A couple of questions about the drain pan. Is a 24 inch pan big enough for a 20 inch water heater? Because of the attic location, I've always been worried about the water heater rusting out from the bottom. I had them place it on an 18 inch round, 2 inch high concrete pad. I've also heard about putting 2 inch diameter metal washers under the water heater to give it some air flow. What do you think? I know the T&P drain tube is too long. Luckily, that is an easy fix.
drain tube and pan
Would it be better to leave the (factory installed) steel nipples on the steel tank since the plumber used the right flex connector? If I change to the 6" brass nipples, will I need to replace the copper flex connectors?
In general, does an expansion tank help the water heater live longer? What are the downsides, besides cost? I'm waiting on the water pressure gauge to arrive, but I probably do not have a pressure problem.
In the past I have gotten excellent information off this forum that has educated me and helped me when dealing with contractors, which is why I'm asking for your help. I'd appreciate any information you all care to share.
Recently my water heater quit working. After several attempts, I finally have a new one installed in the attic. It's not working yet because the plumbers didn't know how to connect the 3 phase wiring to my single phase residential service. While I wait on the electrician to get here, I thought I would ask you all some questions about the installation.
It is a 40 gallon AO Smith Conservationist model PXHT-40 Series 200.
What I noticed first is that the plumbers straightened the existing hard copper lines. The only way to explain it is to show you.
previous GE water heater copper lines curved
new AOS water heater copper lines straightened
The old GE water heater was 47 inches tall. The new AOS is 60 inches tall. The gate valve was leaking so they put a new ball valve on the cold water supply line. Why lean it like that? Why not just take the original set up, straighten them up a little and add more hard copper line going to the left to the water heater? Should this be re-done?
The "factory-supplied" T&P valve was not in the box. The plumber had one on his truck and installed it. I found the package after they left and this valve has a 2 inch probe/thermometer. This model water heater has 3 inches of insulation. Should I leave it or have it replaced with the T&P valve from AO Smith that has a 3 inch probe/thermometer?
That brings us to the Brasscraft 18 inch copper flex lines with dielectric sleeve. You can see in the above photo, the flex lines on the AOS are touching the water heater. It looks to me like the new ones are bent too severely and could restrict the water flow. Will the sleeve crack or break at this bend over time?
previous GE flex
new AOS flex
A couple of questions about the drain pan. Is a 24 inch pan big enough for a 20 inch water heater? Because of the attic location, I've always been worried about the water heater rusting out from the bottom. I had them place it on an 18 inch round, 2 inch high concrete pad. I've also heard about putting 2 inch diameter metal washers under the water heater to give it some air flow. What do you think? I know the T&P drain tube is too long. Luckily, that is an easy fix.
drain tube and pan
Would it be better to leave the (factory installed) steel nipples on the steel tank since the plumber used the right flex connector? If I change to the 6" brass nipples, will I need to replace the copper flex connectors?
In general, does an expansion tank help the water heater live longer? What are the downsides, besides cost? I'm waiting on the water pressure gauge to arrive, but I probably do not have a pressure problem.
In the past I have gotten excellent information off this forum that has educated me and helped me when dealing with contractors, which is why I'm asking for your help. I'd appreciate any information you all care to share.