Question on Fleck 7000 water softener 64k grin

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by silversaver, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    what's the difference between fiberglass vs mineral tank? I see different vendors supply these 2 tanks as 12 x 48 and 12 x 52 for 64k grin system.


    In additon: My current setup were using 3/4" piping. I could have using the flex connectors for easy installation, but I'm worry the 3/4" piping will limited the water flow rate.

    The main piping to house were 1.25". Should I re-piping to 1" pipes instead? I'm about the purchase the softener, but needs the info before I order the system.

    Maybe I should have giving more infor:

    My current water softener is a GE Smartwater Profile 40k system with 1" male threads. Somehow the installer has using the 3/4" copper pipes to connect between softener and house's main 1.25" pipes. I can feel the water pressure drops when 2 showers run at same time. This has bothering me the last 10 years.... Finally the water softener broke down!!!

    Now, it is the chance to correct all the problem. It is good that I have decided on the Fleck 7000 64k system. I don't mind to hire a professional to install the system, but I need the info on correct size bypass connection to get with the new softener.

    As I mention ealier, I can use a flex connector for simple installation over the exiting 3/4" piping, but I don't want to face the same problem I had for last 10years. Will a 1" piping helps? Or stay with 3/4" piping since the Fleck 7000 has better internal high flow valves compares with GE?

    many thanks in advance
  2. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Mineral tanks are "fiberglass" tanks. They are polyethylene inner shells with a fiberglass wrapping, then epoxy coated.

    The 12x52 is a better choice for a 2 cu. ft. system, the 12x48 is slighly small for this much media. Both are commonly used but the 12x52 is preferred.

    As to you plumbing size, code does not allow for a reduction in pipe size. Water velocity is the key issue here for pipe size considerations. Internal piping of a system is an engineered item specifically designed to accomodate a flow velocity exceeding 10 FPS, so internal manifolds will usually have an exception to the pipe size rule. Also, inspectors do not know whats inside of a system, they only know what they can see.

    I see no reason not to simply get a 2 cu. ft. 7000 w/ the proper 1-1/4" connectors. You may have to have a plumber install it, but it will be done right and to code. (hopefully)

    Stainless Falcon flex connectors are available in 1-1/4", you would only need to sweat on a couple of MIP adapters to the existing plumbing.

    Since you are in Orange County California, you will have copper plumbing, Fleck has 1-1/4" sweat connectors available at a reasonable price pt#41243-01 or 1-1/4" plastic threaded connectors pt#40565-01. Anybody you order the system from should have these parts available. Dont forget, you need to order 2 pieces.
  3. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Many thanks Dittohead!!!

    I'll order the system today. I think I'll have to order the plastic bypass in either 1" or 1-1/4" to accomendate flex connectors.
  4. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The 7000 only has 1 bypass, it is a 1-1/4", the plumbing connectors are what make it the different size. See the attached picture for details. bypass.jpg
  5. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks once again Dittohead.

    I am getting the 1-1/4" in plastic not brass sweat. I recall a online seller mention the flex connector required plastic connector, correct?

    Or....

    I'll probably skip the flex connection. (not sure which is better option..) I think I'll order:

    Tank Color Option:Almond
    Insulating Jacket:NO Insulating Jacket
    Brine Tank Size:18x33 Round Brine Tank 0
    Res-Care Feeder:NO Res-Care Feeder
    Resin Media Option:Hi-Capacity Resin - 8% Crosslink
    Distributor Tube:With 32MM HI-FLOW Distributor
    Turbulator Option:NO Turbulator 12x52 Tank
    Plumbing Connection:BYPASS, Noryl 1-1/4" Male NPT
    Drain Tubing:WITH Drain Tubing - 10 Ft.

    I assume the above will come with pt#40565-01 1-1/4" MNPT

    In addition: I will also order the brass sweat separately since there's no upgrade feaures on seller's website. But... which one should I get?

    1. Connector Assembly, 1" x 1-1/4" Brass Sweat w/O-Ring (2-Pack) - 41242-01

    or

    2. Connector Assembly, 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" Brass Sweat w/O-Ring (2-Pack) - 41243-01


    Dittohead, the part # you gave were #2, is that the right ones?

    thanks
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013
  6. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Hi Dittohead,

    Can you send me the cheat sheet setting? I prefer good water quality over salt saving :)

    hardness 21gpg
    iron none to very low
    manganese none to very low
    chlorine 0.7ppm

    Family of 3 adults + 1 baby with 3 full bathrooms. The water usuage is about 220 gallons per day on average base on my current water softener.

    The new water softener is Fleck 7000 SXT 2 cu ft with 32mm districbutor using 1-1/4" copper pipes.

    Many thanks
  7. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    7000 2 email.jpg

    Set H to 21, the rest will remain the same. Congrats on the new system!
  8. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks Dittohead,

    I actually bought another unit for my partner :) same configuration.
  9. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Got the system installed. Press and hold the up and down arrow to enter the setup screen. It only allow me to set regen time, hardness, DO and RC. How do I enter the other setup screen?
  10. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    set the time to 12:01 PM, wait 10 seconds, then press the up and down arrow buttons for 5-8 seconds, you are now in master programming.

    Post a picture of the installation. Who did the install for you?
  11. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Jason did. His setting is little different as yours so I like to adjust it

    PS. Ah I see... you must set the time to 12:01pm first... no wonder..

    photo.jpg
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    That is a nice install. It is unlikely you will ever notice a flow restriction with 1-1/4" copper pipe feeding a house. The 7000 is a great match for that application as well. The all black system is nice looking too. I have never been a big fan of the blue or beige systems.
  13. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    The black system looks pretty nice. Just one question nf your cheat sheet. Is RR set to 5 min enough to wash off the salts? I mean the rapid rinse time.

    By the way, I am experience water flow drop with only 2 fraucets on. very strange... any idea? The water pressure in the house is 70psi +



    thanks
  14. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Water pressure drops occur on modern houses regardless. On a new system, the unit should be backwashed a few times before you will get almost no restriction. I would push the regeneration button and release it, the system will regenerate tonight. New softeners should be regenerated a couple times prior to use to thoroughly clean the resin bed.

    A very common problem on larger houses is the use of small pex lines going long distances. A softner will add a very small amount of pressure drop, almost insignificant, but if the 1/2" pex tube is run too long already, that small amount of pressure drop may put the pipe over the edge. It is most common at the upstairs bathroom shower that is farthest away from the water inlet to the house.

    For fun, after the system regenerates, go into Diagnostics mode. You can see the current flow rate, peak flow rate, etc.

    Press the up and regeneration button simultaneously for 5-8 seconds,

    FR is the current flow rate. You should be able to get 15+ GPM through the system without any problem.

    The RR is not used to rinse salt off, the BR cycle does that. The BR stands for Brine and slow rinse. The system should remove the salt from the brine tank in about 10-20 minutes, then the remainder of the time is a slow rinse. In the 7000 service manual, or an earlier post you will see the flow rate of the slow rinse. The rapid rinse packs the bed down, and provides high quality soft water as soon as the regeneration is complete. In theory, a system does not really need a fast rinse, but it is worth the 10-15 gallons.
  15. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Great advise as usual, Dittohead. I do find the water unclear and plastic smell when the system first install... after few backwashes and regeneration, it is muh better now. You are right, the water flow rate has increase. (5 regenerations) I finally felt I made the right decision :)

    I have your cheat sheet setting now and since I have an 8 months old, would a higher salt setting making an smoother water?
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  16. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    the 8 pound salt setting will give you very good quality, but the water wont be real soft for a few weeks, depending on how long you were on hard water. The soft scale buildup will quickly be removed by the soft water, but it will also raise the hardness by a few ppm, enough to take away the "slippery" feel for a little while.

    Congrats on the new system!
  17. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks Dittohead,

    I just check the brine tank and found the water were covering the 3 bags of 40lbs salt. Is that look right?

    1.jpg

    I also found this on the brine well cap. It looks like part of brine fitting assembly were it should be install on the end of brine line tubing. Is that the reason why there are so much water in brine tank?

    2.jpg
  18. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    That is a tube insert. Most tanks come with one in the tube and an extra on the cap in case it gets lost. We sell those in 1000 min. order qty's, every service guy usually has those in bulk on their service truck, in their pockets, in the glove box, on the floor board... It is used to reinforce the tube connection for Jaco or compression style fittings. I would take it off and throw it in a drawer. You will know if the system is working properly if it draws brine during the brine and rinse cycle. your brine tank should have around 5 gallons of water in the brine tank when it refills. Dont forget to add approx. 3"s for the aircheck assy.
  19. silversaver

    silversaver New Member

    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Sorry, I'm lost. What do you mean of 3"s for aircheck assy??

    There are more than 5 gallons on water in the brine tank. I'll do another regeneration tonight. I think if I wanna decrease the water in brine tank, perhaps I can lower the BF to 10 so It will decrese the water by 3 gallons if my default was setting at 22. right?

    thanks
  20. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,943
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The water level in the brine tank is usually calculated -3" to accomodate for the airrcheck assembly in the brine well. If you regenerate it, you will notice the water level will not drop all the way to the bottom. It is like having a straw in a glass, but it is off the bottom slightly.
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