Purchasing new softener + GAC - help sizing and general advice?

Users who are viewing this thread

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
I agree with you Tom, some people just dont get it. The reason that municipalities chlorinate is a legal issue, a residual chlorine level must be maintained up to the residence. That darn pesky code again.
LOL a code that water companies must add chlorine... Actually it is a liability issue but not all municipal water systems are chlorinated.

BTW, "Tom" has told so many stories he can't keep them straight but notice there are still some states that no license is required.

.... And velocity is what it is all about when it comes to pipe size and code, it is the basis for sizing pipes. It determines the correct pipe size for an application. That is why a small resaurant may need a 2" copper feed pipe, when the restaurant next door may only need a 1" pipe.

That is why velocities can exceed 8 FPS inside of the softener tank otr water heater dip tubes without causing these problem, being cushioned and surrounded by water limits these issues.

And you are correct, we do not "measure" velocities, we calculate it. It is really a very simple calculation. It is also one of the most important calculations to consider when sizing equipment.
Softeners and filters are sized based on what gpm they have to be capable of treating and they are installed on plumbing that already exists that should have been sized for the proper velocity.

That bein said, if we keep to the recommended flow rates of the equipment as I have posted, we know that we will be within specs.
And if we use a 3/4" control valve the increased velocity through the valve and softener is not a problem, as I said and you are now agreeing with.

I think you should have gotten into water hammer somewhere in all your bluster but, since I say your flow rates are higher than what resin manufacturers suggest and I use slightly lower flow rates than you do (you say a 2.0cuft has 18 gpm and I say 13 gpm and resin guys suggest a 5gpm/cuft for much higher quality water than is required in residential applications, and the plumbing is already sized and installed, meaning the velocity is good to go where the softeners are to be installed, I must be sizing without exceeding acceptable velocity.... ya think? Or do you want continue to make yourself look worse than you are already?

Water line size is determined so as to provide/deliver the amount of water in gpm that will cover the peak demand gpm need of the building and you don't do that with velocity alone.

You first find the gpm needed for the peak demand and then the size of the pipe that will allow the correct gpm at an acceptable velocity for the material of the water line, at whatever pressure the system is run at. Not the other way around as you are claiming.

IOWs, the restaurant with the 2" line has a much higher peak demand gpm than the one with the 1" line and if copper is used, both sizes will deliver the peak demand gpm each building requires, at whatever pressure the systems run at and, keep the velocity under or to not exceed the max velocity of 8ft/sec. while preventing most water hammer.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks