Pump is short-cycling. Tank bladder issue?

[Chris O]

I just moved into a home with well-water. I've noticed that the pump seems to be kicking on and off immediately when water is discharged. I'm no expert, but I'm fairly certain it shouldn't be doing this. I already see that I need to replace the pressure gauge, so don't know what the actual pressures are when it's kicking on and off. I'm not sure if the pressure switch is functioning correctly either. The pressure in the tank is about 25 psi as measured at the schraeder valve on the tank top.

Here's the video of what happens when I turn on the water:

I'd really appreciate anyone's input. Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

That rattle sound is weird. So the pressure tank is not the only problem IMO, if it is even a problem. I am not a pro.

A pressure tank's precharge should be measured and set with the water pressure at zero. Then when there is water in the tank, with the pressure above the precharge level, the air pressure would be very close to the water pressure. The pressure tank precharge for an above ground pump should usually be about 3 or 4 PSI below the cut-on pressure for the pressure switch.

You only showed glimpses of the pressure gauge. If the problem was the pressure tank, we would see that needle rise, the pressure switch would cut off. If there was water being used, the water pressure would drop too quickly, and the pump would turn on again. Consider another video showing the pressure gauge the whole time.

If I were troubleshooting this, I would measure the voltage to the pump at the pressures switch terminals. The voltage should be either zero or full voltage (about 240 or 120 volts, depending on the power being supplied). It sounds like your cycling is not super fast, so you could check that voltage. That pressure switch looks suspect, but you cannot tell by looking.

 

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[Valveman]

That sound is the bladder in the tank stretching and dragging on the sides. The tank is bad. They can only take so many on/off cycles.

 

[Chris O]

That rattle sound is weird. So the pressure tank is not the only problem IMO, if it is even a problem. I am not a pro.

A pressure tank's precharge should be measured and set with the water pressure at zero. Then when there is water in the tank, with the pressure above the precharge level, the air pressure would be very close to the water pressure. The pressure tank precharge for an above ground pump should usually be about 3 or 4 PSI below the cut-on pressure for the pressure switch.

You only showed glimpses of the pressure gauge. If the problem was the pressure tank, we would see that needle rise, the pressure switch would cut off. If there was water being used, the water pressure would drop too quickly, and the pump would turn on again. Consider another video showing the pressure gauge the whole time.

If I were troubleshooting this, I would measure the voltage to the pump at the pressures switch terminals. The voltage should be either zero or full voltage (about 240 or 120 volts, depending on the power being supplied). It sounds like your cycling is not super fast, so you could check that voltage. That pressure switch looks suspect, but you cannot tell by looking.

That rattle sound is weird. So the pressure tank is not the only problem IMO, if it is even a problem. I am not a pro.

A pressure tank's precharge should be measured and set with the water pressure at zero. Then when there is water in the tank, with the pressure above the precharge level, the air pressure would be very close to the water pressure. The pressure tank precharge for an above ground pump should usually be about 3 or 4 PSI below the cut-on pressure for the pressure switch.

You only showed glimpses of the pressure gauge. If the problem was the pressure tank, we would see that needle rise, the pressure switch would cut off. If there was water being used, the water pressure would drop too quickly, and the pump would turn on again. Consider another video showing the pressure gauge the whole time.

If I were troubleshooting this, I would measure the voltage to the pump at the pressures switch terminals. The voltage should be either zero or full voltage (about 240 or 120 volts, depending on the power being supplied). It sounds like your cycling is not super fast, so you could check that voltage. That pressure switch looks suspect, but you cannot tell by looking.

Thanks for your detailed input! The pump voltage is ~240V when switched on, so looks ok. I agree the pressure switch is suspect. The pressure gauge is totally not functional, as the needle is pegging where the 0 is located, far past the 30/50 40/60psi range it should be in. I decided to replace the entire setup while including a cycle stop valve.

 

[Chris O]

That sound is the bladder in the tank stretching and dragging on the sides. The tank is bad. They can only take so many on/off cycles.

Thanks for your help! I think so too, and decided to replace the whole setup and include a CSV.

 

[Valveman]

Thanks. And please let us know if you can tell any difference in the pressure.