Pump and Tank stolen

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by dcorazal, Jul 19, 2011.

  1. dcorazal

    dcorazal New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I am buying a side by side duplex (double bungalow) that has had all the pluming stolen including the well and tank.
    I have little experience with wells but have done a lot of research and have a few questions about the well install and hope I can get some expert advice.
    Here’s what I know so far:
    1: The house was built in 1961 and I can’t find any records from the city regarding the well. I assume that the well casing is the original.
    2: I measured the bottom of the well at 125’ and the static level at 85’.
    3: The well casing is 6†and is in “a pit†under the front step.
    My plan is to drop a submersible pump down 100’ with 160psi poly pipe. I have researched the procedure and my local ******* sells most all the fittings that I need. That should put my pump about 23’ from the bottom and 17’ from the static level. As far as I can tell this should be fine?
    I have a couple of questions:
    1: I have no idea how many gallons per minute the well will produce so I am going to try a ¾ hp 10gpm pump and hope that will be okay. Could someone give me any advice as to test the gpm?

    2: At the top of the well I am using a well cap with 3 holes in it one for the 1 ¼ pipe one for the vent and one for the wiring. I have 2 questions here. Where do I run the safely cable through and what fitting should I use at the top of the poly pipe to turn and go to the pressure tank. I can’t seem to find a 90 degree barbed elbow? I have seen a couple of pictures of a “T†at the top of the well cap, one plugged and one side running to the tank.

    Any advice would be appreciated.
  2. dcorazal

    dcorazal New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Correction: The static level is 38' not 85'
  3. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,432
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Use a galv coupling, a long galv nipple. a galv tee with a plug to go through the well seal. Don't use a safety rope. Use one piece of poly, no splicing, and set it 3' off bottom. Use a ball valve on the discharge after the galv tee so you can control the output, turn it on and see what happens.
  4. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    sounds like you are thinking of using steel or plastic hose barbs. I hope you are using SS or brass!
  5. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,933
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Is the pit heated? It gets cold in Minnesota. We don't generally come out the top of the casing around here but rather, well below grade with a pitless. My pitless is 8 feet below grade.
  6. dcorazal

    dcorazal New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Thanks for the replies:
    The Pit is heated because it is under the front of the garage. I'm guessing that there is enough heat coming from the house and also that It has been that way since it was installed.
    Yes, I am going to use the Long brass hose barbs with ss hose clamps.

    I drew an image and scanned it into a pdf of what my plans are.

    valveman: I'm not sure I understand your advice. Please know that I am not questioning your expertise:
    Use a galv coupling, a long galv nipple. a galv tee with a plug to go through the well seal. could you look at my pdf and see if that is what you were advising?

    Don't use a safety rope. Okay

    Use one piece of poly, no splicing, Yes got it

    and set it 3' off bottom. Use a ball valve on the discharge after the galv tee so you can control the output, turn it on and see what happens.

    I was planning on setting the pump at 100' which would be 25' off the bottom and 62' below static level. Reason: 100' in stock at store and I read some place that you should not put the pump any closer than 5' from the bottom.


    Any thing else I shold be thinking about?
    Thanks for the help!
  7. dcorazal

    dcorazal New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Having trouble getting the pdf for load because it was too big. I took a picture of it and attached that. Hopefully that works

    Attached Files:

  8. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Listen to what valveman says; use no rope, that's old technology. The reason he says 3 feet off bottom is in the event the well is a low producer you'll get the most water stored in the 6" casing. However if you feel the well may be a good producer installing the pump on the end of 100' of polypipe will be fine.

    If you are going to have to buy a new tank and fittings I recommend that you research http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/products.html for the Pside-Kick. It includes a WX-102 Tank and all fittings from the pump line to the house. It's not necessary to install a large tank today if you install a Cycle Stop Valve. A CSV will keep your pump from cycling and give you constant pressure while taking a shower. Your family will love it.
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