studio460
New Member
Here's our half-demo'd laundry area in mid-DIY mode. We're planning 7.5 linear feet of of Ikea countertop in this space, which will cover a 33.5"-high, under-counter LG washer/dryer, plus a row of Ikea base cabinets (15" + 24" + 24"), built to standard counter-height (36"). Here's what I'm planning, plumbing-wise:
1. Lower outlet box to conceal behind 36"-high counter-top and base cabinets.
2. Replace existing trap and standpipe.
3. Replace standard 'T' with sanitary 'T.'
4. Re-plumb to existing vent lines.
Note that I'm not doing the plumbing work myself, I just want to confirm the correct way to do this before I hire the plumber.
Here's a close-up of the existing trap:
The drain outlet hose for the LG washer/dryer is only 15" tall. I was planning for the plumber to install a new ABS trap at 8" above the floor, then extend the opening of the standpipe receptor at 26", which would still allow us enough room to conceal the outlet box below the 36"-high, standard counter-height. I was planning to have the plumber insert a 2" rubber fitting into the 2" cast-iron drain flange (which is embedded into the concrete slab), which seems a much better install than cutting off the flange and using just a no-hub coupler (this is what I used in the bathroom drain). To summarize:
1. LG washer outlet height: 15" above the floor.
2. New trap height: 8" above floor.
3. New standpipe receptor height: 26" above the floor (18" above trap).
4. Maximum height of the top of the outlet box: 36" (i.e., counter-height).
Questions:
A. The washer/dryer we've chosen (LG 2.3 cubic-foot combination washer/dryer model: WM3455HW) uses a ventless condenser dryer. During its drying cycle, frequent water-evacuation purges occur (about once every 20 seconds), creating a "drain-burping" sound at each occurrence. So, I was wondering--why are all laundry standpipe drains of an "open" design--where the washer's hose is simply dropped into the standpipe receptor? Is there a "closed" design which would better assist in dampening the sound of the "drain-burp?" I assume not, since this design provides a presumably, necessary air-gap. However, is the product shown below something which would result in a "cleaner" (but not necessarily, "quieter") install?
1. Lower outlet box to conceal behind 36"-high counter-top and base cabinets.
2. Replace existing trap and standpipe.
3. Replace standard 'T' with sanitary 'T.'
4. Re-plumb to existing vent lines.
Note that I'm not doing the plumbing work myself, I just want to confirm the correct way to do this before I hire the plumber.
Here's a close-up of the existing trap:
The drain outlet hose for the LG washer/dryer is only 15" tall. I was planning for the plumber to install a new ABS trap at 8" above the floor, then extend the opening of the standpipe receptor at 26", which would still allow us enough room to conceal the outlet box below the 36"-high, standard counter-height. I was planning to have the plumber insert a 2" rubber fitting into the 2" cast-iron drain flange (which is embedded into the concrete slab), which seems a much better install than cutting off the flange and using just a no-hub coupler (this is what I used in the bathroom drain). To summarize:
1. LG washer outlet height: 15" above the floor.
2. New trap height: 8" above floor.
3. New standpipe receptor height: 26" above the floor (18" above trap).
4. Maximum height of the top of the outlet box: 36" (i.e., counter-height).
Questions:
A. The washer/dryer we've chosen (LG 2.3 cubic-foot combination washer/dryer model: WM3455HW) uses a ventless condenser dryer. During its drying cycle, frequent water-evacuation purges occur (about once every 20 seconds), creating a "drain-burping" sound at each occurrence. So, I was wondering--why are all laundry standpipe drains of an "open" design--where the washer's hose is simply dropped into the standpipe receptor? Is there a "closed" design which would better assist in dampening the sound of the "drain-burp?" I assume not, since this design provides a presumably, necessary air-gap. However, is the product shown below something which would result in a "cleaner" (but not necessarily, "quieter") install?
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