Professional rough-in

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by FatsoPilot, Aug 16, 2012.

  1. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    I paid a professional plumber to do the DWV rough-in for my basement. Does this look right? Should I be concerned about all the turns and possible future clogging with my toilet? It basically does a 360 to join back in to the old cast iron. If it is alright any idea on how I can get 4 more inches of clearance off the back wall (the wall with the main stack in it)? I don't see a way of doing it without throwing out $40 in parts, I can't cut in anywhere and put in a coupler and I can't get around the vent in front of it to bring it away from the wall. I was all ready to lay cement unit I measured and saw how far off the toilet drain is, so I dug it back up and now I'm having second thoughts on the whole layout. Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

    resized_imagejpeg.jpg resized_imagejpeg-2.jpg resized_imagejpeg-1.jpg
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,477
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    It MIGHT have been the only way to do it, but since all of the old piping is covered up, we cannot tell if there was a better spot to make the connection. He should NOT have used a "Fernco" type coupling to make the finall connection, however, IF your area only allows them underground OUTSIDE the building. I would be more concerned about the shower drain, if that is what it is, because, unless it has an individual vent, it is NOT vented the way it is installed. A shower vent could vent the toilet, but the toilet vent CANNOT vent the shower.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  3. mikeplummer

    mikeplummer Plumber

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    this looks far from professional
  4. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    That is the old shower drain (you can see I've taken it off in the 2nd and 3rd pictures above), I'm turning it into a general drain for the basement. Here is the cast iron before we started:

    DSC_0006small.jpg

    You can see the old toilet on the right which is where we broke into. The vent for the basement is the copper on the upper right corner. I can extend out from the old cast iron if necessary and keep the current setup which will give me the required clearance for my toilet. I'm mainly concerned about toilet clogging issues with the current setup. Thanks again.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  5. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State

    He told me he has been a plumber for 35 years and has done 1000's of basement DWV systems. What about it looks unprofessional? What would you change?
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,888
    Location:
    New England
    There's a limit on how much a drain line can turn before a cleanout is required (and I think you've exceeded it). With all of those angles, it is going to slow things down and it would be a bear to impossible to snake, should it ever become necessary.

    Was a permit pulled? Was it inspected and passed?
  7. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    I didn't get a permit, I wasn't planning on getting one but I am looking into it now.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  8. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    I'm not sure what you are hinting at, the plumber has his license listed as GERLAP8897MQ. It either sounds like you are calling me a liar or saying that this plumber that I paid isn't actually licensed. I'm asking for advice here (of which you've added nothing to the conversation except peanut gallery type remarks), not trying to make the plumbing profession look bad. I didn't get a permit and the plumber didn't insist on a permit.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  9. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    I'm not sure what you are trying to prove, it is listed as gerlap*897mq and they are listed as a licensed contractor with a plumbing speciality. I'm really just looking for advice on what I should do, I'm not trying to get into an argument with anyone on whether the plumber I used is licensed or not.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2012
  10. Hotbacon

    Hotbacon New Member

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    Shillington, PA
    I have nothing of real value to add, aside from the fact that I'm a total novice at plumbing and can see this spiral drain would cause issues.

    For Tom, here's a craigslist ad for a plumber in Spokane with that plumbing license: http://spokane.craigslist.org/sks/3174449956.html
  11. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,888
    Location:
    New England
    What he was trying to say (I think anyway), is that he checked, and that number isn't valid. Doesn't mean he isn't saying it is, it's just that it isn't currently a valid number! He may have lost it, or he may never have had one, or who knows what. A call to the county and you can verify that yourself. I can say I'm a brain surgeon, that doesn't make me one.

    I'm no expert, but from what I (think) I know, that would NOT pass code or an inspection. Code is a MINIMUM implementation; I don't think he met that level.
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,889
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I deleted a few of the Tom Sawyer posts.

    The layout looks awkward to those of us that take pride in plumbing.
    Could it have been done better? Yes
    With less bends? Yes
    Like hj, I would have liked to have seen a shielded coupling in place of the rubber Fernco.
    Could the rough In been closer to the wall? I would think so.
    To be fair, it was a bit of a challenge there. Like hj, I would have considered cutting out the old and starting new.

    I also wonder where that other pipe is going before the vent for the toilet. Is that a new shower? If so, it should be vented between the p-trap and where it enters the main line, downstream of the toilet.
  13. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    Thank you for the reply, it is much appreciated. The other pipe exiting the bottom of the image is a 2" run going to a shower and a tub both of which were vented separately.
  14. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,125
    Location:
    Maine
    Was not trying to bust the guys hump but if he paid a licensed plumber to do the job then he got screwed and should be going after the plumber rather than having to try and fix the mess himself and have to spend more money. I'll go back to my earlier post though and reiterate that to do what he wants done properly, more if not most of the old cast needs to be torn out and re-routed which is what 90% of experienced plumbers would do rather than the mess he has there. Sorry if you all thought I was bagging on him, not my intention.
  15. hagakure

    hagakure New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    nyc
    A 90 degree turn should be done using a wye and 45 with a cap at the end for a cleanout and since you're in the basement, put it right there in the floor.

    Copper vent? Is it even big enough to vent everything you're doing? Does it tie into a larger vent not made of copper? If so, use it for something else or scrap it for $2.50 lb.

    And just for future reference, I'd be wary of craigslist posters even if they do have websites. This goes for more than just professional service offers. This is from personal experience..

    ..I have a problem.

    Though his mind is not for rent

    Don't put him doown as arrogant.
  16. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,477
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    That last picture shows just enough to be "intriguing". it appears to be a "Y", 45, tee or Y, and another tee "backwards" into that fitting, which also creates a "loop". What is that connection for? If THAT mishmash had been removed and redone, I am sure the toilet's connection would have been much simpler. For anything other than a floor drain branch, a cleanout is "required" after every 90 degrees which means your setup would have needed THREE cleanouts assuming there was room for them, which there is not.
  17. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,125
    Location:
    Maine
    So HJ, am I off base to suggest that whoever plumbed that mess has no clue what he's doing?
  18. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    The copper vent is 2 inches.
  19. FatsoPilot

    FatsoPilot New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    WA State
    That last picture was the original plumbing when I dug it up. There was a sink that drained into the copper vent and down through the toilet line. I've had someone else come look at it and they are going to break into the mainline and take out all the old cast iron, properly place the toilet rough-in, take out all the old work and put in a backwater valve. I'll post pictures when it is done. I'll see what the original guy says when I tell him I had to pay someone else to redo all the work. Thanks for all the advice.
  20. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,125
    Location:
    Maine
    Now there you go, you go after the guy that ripped you off in the first place. Before you do the backwater valve, make sure you check with the city or town because sometimes they don't like them installed without their knowledge.
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