Problem with toilet shut off valve

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AlGreen

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Do I have to cut this old valve off to replace it?

20160803_132600.jpg
 

Flapper

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Do I have to cut this old valve off to replace it?
It's soldered, so either you desolder it, or you cut it off. Looks like you have enough stub-out to cut it off and replace it. You can use a push fit or a compression fit valve, after you clean the pipe.
Why do you need to replace it?
 

Dj2

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First shut the water, then you can cut the valve off, pull out the flange, clean the stub out well (you can even use emery cloth), insert a new flange for 1/2" copper, and finally install a new compression angle stop valve.
Now test it.
No leaks? install a new flex connector.
 

Flapper

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It leaked a little bit when I turned it the other day, so figured might be a good time.
Those kinds of valves typically leak at the packing nut after a while; you just tighten the packing nut.

If you replace it, use a 1/4 turn valve.
 

Smooky

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Those kinds of valves typically leak at the packing nut after a while; you just tighten the packing nut.

If you replace it, use a 1/4 turn valve.

If it leaks around the stem , tightening the packing nut is not going to help , as I stated before. You need to make sure the valve is fully open. If it still leaks after that you could replace the neoprene washer or instal a new valve.
 

AlGreen

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I ended up going with the Sharkbite 1/4 turn angle valve. I also replaced the fill valve with a Korky Platinum Quietfill to stop the water hammer. Done and done!

20160804_153750.jpg
 

Flapper

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I ended up going with the Sharkbite 1/4 turn angle valve. I also replaced the fill valve with a Korky Platinum Quietfill to stop the water hammer. Done and done!

View attachment 35572
meeeh... you know you could have used a compression fitting valve which would last longer and not rotate when you turn the valve. Problem with the push-fit angle stops is because the fitting turns so easily, sometimes when you turn the handle, the whole thing turns instead. :confused: A compression fit valve is more secure.
To install a compression fitting, all you need is two wrenches, or one wrench and a locking pliers; one holds the valve and the other tightens the nut.
Your installation is fine but if you find that you don't like it, you still have plenty of time to return it and get a different one :)

Also is that black nut upside-down?
 
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Flapper

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Pretty!
I never thought I would find pipes behind a toilet pretty - but there you have it. :D
What about mine; I think mine is better :p
This was my first valve replacement; on this one I cut off the nut & ferrule & insert and the stub-out was really short but luckily this worked. After this I learned from here that you can cut the ferrule and then you can just install a new compression valve over the same piece (and same insert). That's what I did the second time.
It's even better now because I put an escucheon behind the valve which matches perfectly; unfortunately didn't get a picture of that so this is the original outdated pic.
Just pretend theres an escutcheon behind the valve.
ZvKFjf8.jpg

I like the keeney push valve because it has that smooth round rear end; the Sharkbite valve has a silly cover thing that you snap over the end and it's ugly (looks better without it).

517e8360-5f19-44db-96c0-ae1fa46f64c0_1000.jpg< Sharkbite valve with silly cover thing
046224029809.jpg < Keeney valve; this looks slightly different than the one I got.
The round thing is like a built-in release tool; to release it you remove the safety clip thing that's behind it, then you can pull it back to release; little or no tools required to remove the valve (and no special tools). I don't really like the sharpish ends of the clip sticking out but the smooth cylindrical ring/sleeve looks nice.
 
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AlGreen

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Pretty!
I never thought I would find pipes behind a toilet pretty - but there you have it. :D

Thanks! Not half bad, right?

meeeh... you know you could have used a compression fitting valve which would last longer and not rotate when you turn the valve. Problem with the push-fit angle stops is because the fitting turns so easily, sometimes when you turn the handle, the whole thing turns instead. :confused: A compression fit valve is more secure.
To install a compression fitting, all you need is two wrenches, or one wrench and a locking pliers; one holds the valve and the other tightens the nut.
Your installation is fine but if you find that you don't like it, you still have plenty of time to return it and get a different one :)

Also is that black nut upside-down?

Ha. I knew I'd hear it from the pro compression camp. Since I don't plan on turning the valve off and on very often, the rotation aspect doesn't bother me. Also, I don't have much pipe there, and if I went compression and ever had to replace it, there's a good chance I'd have to cut more pipe to remove the ferrule. EDIT: I see you've had good luck just cutting the ferrule. I think I'd have a hard time getting my saw in there, but maybe... Ok, I'll use a compression valve next time just for you!

Black nut is oriented correctly per the Korky instructions.
 

Flapper

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Ha. I knew I'd hear it from the pro compression camp. Since I don't plan on turning the valve off and on very often, the rotation aspect doesn't bother me. Also, I don't have much pipe there, and if I went compression and ever had to replace it, there's a good chance I'd have to cut more pipe to remove the ferrule.
I'm not a pro at all. :p
 

Iamplumbingidiot

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I ended up going with the Sharkbite 1/4 turn angle valve. I also replaced the fill valve with a Korky Platinum Quietfill to stop the water hammer. Done and done!

View attachment 35572
I ended up going with the Sharkbite 1/4 turn angle valve. I also replaced the fill valve with a Korky Platinum Quietfill to stop the water hammer. Done and done!

View attachment 35572

from the pic it doesn't look like you have much left between the wall and the installed Sharkbite. Will you have enough space to put the removal horseshoe shaped clip in to remove it in the future? they make it look so easy to remove it in the video. A person holding a pipe in one hand and with removal clip in place and Sharkbite in other hand, just pull but it may not be that easy with installed Sharkbite.
 

AlGreen

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from the pic it doesn't look like you have much left between the wall and the installed Sharkbite. Will you have enough space to put the removal horseshoe shaped clip in to remove it in the future? they make it look so easy to remove it in the video. A person holding a pipe in one hand and with removal clip in place and Sharkbite in other hand, just pull but it may not be that easy with installed Sharkbite.

Good question. I'm going to find out some time down the road.
 

Terry

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If the toilet is too noisy or causes water hammer, the valve is not the issue.

A bad shutoff can cause water hammer, or a bad fill valve can too.
We run shutoffs opened all the way, and then turn them back in just a bit if we're using multi-turn valves.
Open all the way with 1/4" turn valves.

A bad rubber washer on a muti-turn will sometimes flutter and cause hammer. Same way it does on lav and tub faucets.
 
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