Problem with Laundry Drain. Photos Included.

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Henry G, Sep 3, 2009.

  1. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    First off please excuse my lack of knowledge in regards to plumbing. I've done small jobs here and there, and have helped friends in the past, but I don't claim to know a lot about plumbing.

    Long story short... I had some foundation work done to the house. I was expecting problems to arise because of this. The doors needs to be rehung, and small cracks appeared in the plastic. No problem.

    Basically what looked to be a small leak under the house, is a much bigger problem. The drain for the washer had a small leak on a fitting, but had a much larger problem where it meets up with the main drain of the house.

    I also noticed the whole plumbing job on the washer is wrong so it will need to be completely redone. There is no trap, vent, etc. :mad:

    Here is the pipe after I cut it in half. I was amazed at the buildup inside. Is this caused by no vent, or maybe the wrong angle of the drain?
    [​IMG]

    Where this galvanized pipe (1' 1/2"?) meets the old iron drain. As you can see the problem doesn't get any better. When I checked this area the galvanized pipe could move around inside in the iron pipe.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    A few questions:

    1) I'm planning to redo all the lines for the washer with PVC. How do I properly connect PVC with the iron drain? The supply lines will stay galvanized.

    2) Can the trap for the drain be under the house, or should it be in the wall cavity?

    3) What should the angle of the drain pipe be for maximum efficiency? I'm wondering if this may not have had a good enough angle. If not what would cause this amount of buildup? Could the lack of a vent have caused this?

    Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    The rest of that part of the drain system.

    [​IMG]
  3. shacko

    shacko Master Plumber-Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    561
    Location:
    Rosedale, Md
    Drain Problem

    :eek: You have a major problem on your hands, all that cast iron that I can see should be replaced; whoever put it in should be rolling over is his grave!

    The lines are kinked and traped, no wonder they didn't drain properly and allowed that mess to build up.

    Cut the cast until you get to a straight piece, then you can connect pvc with Fernco or Mission couplings, keep in mind all of that pipe needs to be replaced, water lines also if they are galv.

    The wash machine trap has to be near the washer, you can't put it below the floor, it also needs a 18-30in. stand pipe out of the trap, plus a vent, have fun, :eek:
  4. Cookie

    Cookie .

    Messages:
    5,658
    Location:
    .
    I sell Real Estate can I interest you in a new house? ;)
  5. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,409
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]

    The p-trap needs to be on the same floor as the washer, not below the floor.

    [​IMG]

    Below the hub you can see the lead we pulled out,
    in the hub is the new 2" pipe with Fernco insert.

    You also have 2" hubs.

    Many times when I pull out old pipe, it looks like that.
    1/4" per foot grade or 2% is what we use.

    [​IMG]
    This one fits inside a hub, and the pipe is pushed inside.
    I taper the end of the pipe, and lube it with liquid soap.
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2009
  6. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    Wow, this forum is awesome. I didn't expect any replies for at least a week!

    Yeah I figured I would need to fix this nightmare situation. The problem is I can only cut so much unless I want to also redo the drain to the sink. You can't see it from this picture but there is also a drain line behind it that runs to the sink. :(

    I plan to do it all correctly but at the moment I need to be able to use the washing machine. :) I figured that I would correct all the problems in the laundry room, and down to the drain for now. Then tackle the rest.

    I'll look into the Fernco couplings.

  7. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    We'll see how this turns out. I may be giving you a call. ;)
  8. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    1. A picture is worth a thousand words!:D I will follow this example in the photo.


    2. I was reading another thread in this forum and I think I'll try and get these fernco inserts.

    "Fernco donut part numbers for 2" plastic DWV pipe into 2" cast iron hub:
    P22U-205: for service duty cast iron (marked "SV")
    P22UX-205: for extra heavy cast iron (marked "XH")"

    I need to crawl back under the house to check which cast iron I have. Should this marking be easy to find?

    3. I need to install a vent pipe. Should this always be vented through the roof, or are you able to vent it under the eve?
  9. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

    Messages:
    1,317
    Location:
    SW Florida
    What state are you in? In FL you can sidewall vent but must remain 10' above grade and not under a soffitted eave or an operable window. There may be more restrictions.
  10. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    I'm in WA state. I see a lot of people on the board are also from WA, maybe one of them knows for sure. :) I'll just run it through the roof if I have to.
  11. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    Hopefully I have the "SV" pipe so I'm not trying to track down the correct coupling.

    I'm debating whether to add the Fernco to the cat iron end in the photo, or maybe try to remove it and use the one that appears to have some of the caulking coming out. I plan to replace it all but at this point I need to get it up and running. I still need to remodel the bathroom so I'll replace this part of the system at that time.

    How difficult is it to remove that small portion of the cast iron? I would imagine it is not going to come off easily.
  12. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    Then it looks like I'll just route it through the roof. Thanks!
  13. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    So Home Depot wasn't much help (as usual).

    One person suggested that using an insert is a bad idea, The other had never heard of fernco making something like this and I couldn't find it myself. Maybe my store doesn't carry it.

    Anyway, he suggest I should use this:

    [​IMG]

    Seems like it would work but wouldn't this void it make become a problem?
  14. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,230
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Fernco

    That coupling is NOT designed to fit OVER a cast iron hub. Using it would be a *********/handyman procedure. AND since it is merely a rubber coupling it is not supposed to be used INSIDE a house ANYWHERE.
  15. Henry G

    Henry G New Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Washington, UPC code
    That's how I felt about it. I've had more than one person try to tell me this is how you could connect the drain situation I have, but it just feels like putting a band aid on it.

    I did find a company in town that carries the fernco insert so hopefully this works out.

    Thanks

    [​IMG]
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, 2009
  16. Herk

    Herk Plumber

    Messages:
    547
    Location:
    S.E. Idaho
    As an aside, if that's lead showing on those cast iron joints, it's the worst lead-finishing I've ever seen.
  17. runswithscissors

    runswithscissors New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Goleta, CA
    Does anyone know where I can find the
    that was referenced earlier.

    I did a google search....and nothing comes up. Or, is there another suitable item. Thanks
  18. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    The hardware stores carry a relatively small assortment of the very commonly used fittings. They can sell them at a good price based on volume. That leaves you up a tree when you tackle a project that needs more specialty fittings. A good plumbing supply house will get you what you need. If you visit the fernco website, you will see the massive variety available. A hardware store just can't stock it all.
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