Price Pfister bath faucet still dripping fast after replacing stem

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mrLee

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Hi everyone, I've got a 70's Price Pfister bath faucet that won't stop dripping(hot side). This faucet has 3 identical handles/knobs for the hot, cold & shower diverter, I'm sure some of you seen this model that I'm talking about. I've replaced the whole stem, washer & seat inside the wall & still it is dripping hot water fast...(like the old stem was doing) I don't know what else to do besides ripping out the tile wall to replace the whole unit.

help
 

Redwood

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If you have done all that work correctly the valve is more than likely in need of replacement.
 

Jimbo

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A few important steps in the repair procedure for that famous PP 3 handle:

1) When removing and installing the stems, each should be turned 1/2 way open. If you unscrew or screw in the stem, while it is turned all the way closed, you may damage the new washer and seat.

2) Although not mandatory, I like a small wrap of teflon tape on the threads of the seat into the body. Be sure to trim all the excess tape so it does not come loose and float around.

3) I would start over with all new parts. Give it one more try, before condemning the entire valve.

4) What color washers do you use? Black is the easiest, with the shortest life expectancy. Blue or red last longer. White is hardest and longest lasting, but really is too "fussy" for my choice.
 

mrLee

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I took jimbo's advice & start over with new parts & guess what... turns out the new seat was not tighten enough....(I wanted the next guy to have an easier time removing it then me) I'm just so glad I did not have to rip out the wall...

Thanks again everyone, This Site ROCKS !
 

moggy291

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Does it take time for the new stem and seat to break in? I replaced a price fister valve and stem and it stopped the leakage a little bit but still dripping a little bit.
 

hj

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My solution for Price Pfister bath faucets is to get rid fo the stem and washer and convert it to ceramic 1/4 turn stems. That eliminates most problems permanently.
 

Hackneyplumbing

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A few important steps in the repair procedure for that famous PP 3 handle:

1) When removing and installing the stems, each should be turned 1/2 way open. If you unscrew or screw in the stem, while it is turned all the way closed, you may damage the new washer and seat.

2) Although not mandatory, I like a small wrap of teflon tape on the threads of the seat into the body. Be sure to trim all the excess tape so it does not come loose and float around.

3) I would start over with all new parts. Give it one more try, before condemning the entire valve.

4) What color washers do you use? Black is the easiest, with the shortest life expectancy. Blue or red last longer. White is hardest and longest lasting, but really is too "fussy" for my choice.

Really the color of a washer doesn't matter. The material of which the washer is made is the determining factor. I had some faucet washers once that were color coded by size. I have some white teflon washers that are very hard and last in commercial kitchens.

Why cant I remove and install my price pfister compression style stems while they are in the full open position? Whats 1/2 way doin for me?
Good Day!
 

Jimbo

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Really the color of a washer doesn't matter. The material of which the washer is made is the determining factor. I had some faucet washers once that were color coded by size. I have some white teflon washers that are very hard and last in commercial kitchens.

Why cant I remove and install my price pfister compression style stems while they are in the full open position? Whats 1/2 way doin for me?
Good Day!
FULL OPEN is fine. What we must avoid is FULL CLOSED. So we say "make sure to open part way" etc.
 
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