Pressure problems, etc.

[monkr63]

We purchased our home about two years ago. The house is 10 years old and is on a well.

From the time we moved in, the water pressure to the washing machine has been very low, but has recently gotten worse.

Also from the beginning, both showers have emitted a loud, intermittent (on for 2-5 seconds, off for 2-5 seconds) squealing noise. This is regardless of any other water running or not running anywhere in the house. I replaced both shower heads when we moved in. I have not heard the squealing from any other fixtures in the house- only the showers. It happens when one or both showers are running.

In the past week or so, I've noticed the water pressure for the whole house pulsing: normal for 1 second, then lower for perhaps two or three seconds. Currently, the pulsing is in sync with the squealing pipes in the showers. However, as I say, the pulsing is seen on all fixtures. I have also heard the pump control clicking on and off. This appears to be in sync with the pressure pulses at times, but I also hear it occasionally when all the water is off.

Could all these problems be connected? Any suggestions on where I start to diagnose and fix this are appreciated. It may sound trite, but this is rapidly becoming a "quality of life" issue.

Some components of the system:
-- a whole house water filter (sediment only)- sediment is very bad and I have to replace the filter every month or so,
-- a 44 gallon pressure tank (38 psi factory preset | 40/60)- water pressure valve currently reads 40 psi with all fixtures off,
-- water is direct-supply heat via heating oil boiler also used for hot-water heating system (i.e., there is no water heater).
-- As far as I know, all the pipes in the house are copper.

Other than replacing the shower heads, the only other adjustment I've made since moving in was to increase the water temperature at the mixing valve. This was done over a year ago so should not be related.

Thanks,
Richard

 

[Jadnashua]

Shut the pump off. Open a faucet unil the water stops running. Then check the water pressure in the tank. If it really is 38#, then it's good.

Does the water pressure ever get to 60#? If it doesn't, you have a problem with the well (maybe running out of water) or the pump can't build pressure (could be the pump or a leak).

The way it should work is when the pump runs, it should go up to 60#, and if no demand, stop. When you use water, as it drops, when it gets to 40#, the pump should turn back on. If you are trying to use more water than the pump or well can supply, you might run out of water and the pressure will drop as well as the volume.

It sort of sounds like the pump is cycling on and off. This will quickly kill it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[monkr63]

Update. I fixed the pressure problem to the washing machine. The rest of the symptoms are still the same.

 

[hj]

pressure

If the air charge in the tank is too high, or almost zero, your pump will turn on and off quickly and frequently, and if it does that it can cause all the problems you describe.

 

[monkr63]

When I checked the pressure today with no demand, it was 55 psi.

I then turned off the pump and ran the water at a faucet until it stopped. Then with all faucets closed, I turned the power to the pump back on. Here's the result:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsRSMayjVu0

In the video you can hear the Pumptrol cycling on and off repeatedly while the pressure moves between 40 and 60 psi. This makes me think it's a problem with the tank since it doesn't hold the pressure.

Is this a correct diagnosis?

 

[Jadnashua]

WIthout checking the AIR pressure IN the tank when water isn't trying to compress the bladder (i.e., pump off, valve open and no more water coming out as instructed earlier), you won't know for sure. It sure sounds like your tank is waterlogged (broken bladder) or has lost its air charge. There's a valve on the tank, and you use a tire pressure gauge. If you get water out when you take the cap off, your tank is shot. If you don't check it like a tire.

The pump provides the pressure, not the tank. The tank only stores it because the pump pushes water into it, compressing the bladder. If there's no air to compress, it can't store any, or much, anyway. Fix this, or you'll be replacing the pump shortly. If there is a leak back in the well, the stored water under pressure would push back into the well, or maybe into the ground if a pipe is leaking. Because there was pressure and no use, it doesn't sound like there is a leak.

 

[monkr63]

Yes, with the pump off and a faucet open, the air pressure in the tank is zero. I suppose this means I have to replace the pressure tank. Or is it possible to simply add air?

 

[Jadnashua]

You can try adding air. You need to drain the tank first to get a proper fill. My guess is the tank is shot, but it won't hurt to try adding air. Leave a water valve open while pumping it up with air...if it won't rise, the bladder is shot; time for a new tank.

Since water doesn't compress, with no air (gas) in the tank to compress, as the pump ran, it nearly immediately built up pressure, turning it off. Any small use, more than a couple of teaspoons, would drop the pressure and cause the pump to turn on. Not a good situation for longevity.

 

[monkr63]

partial success

I added air to the pressure tank a couple of days ago and since then I have not seen the pulsing in the pressure. I.e., the pressure in the tank is remaining beteween 40 and 60 psi as expected.

The squealing from the showere heads remains, though. It's not quite as loud as it was, but the frequency and duration have changed. I checked and the squealing occurs when the well pump is running and quits when it's off.

Thanks for your help. I couldn't have gotten this far without your guidance.

Richard