Preparing for inspection...

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by coach606, Jul 20, 2006.

  1. coach606

    coach606 New Member

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    Illinois
    I've tapped into my main vertical stack, but a second zoning issue is delaying much of my rennovations. This gives me time to consider how best to build my new dwv system to make for an easy testing by the inspector. I'm going to post some pictures of my proposed system, but here are my questions:

    1) The inspector will need to "fill" the entire new dwv section with water and test it for leaks. Does this need to be ready when he arrives? Does he fill it?

    2) My new bathroom is in the attic, with dwv run down a wall on the first floor, then across the basement and into a stack. Do I need to make arrangements to stop the dwv line just before it enters the stack so the system can be filled? I did cut into the stack, but stoppering it there would also impact the bathroom on the first floor.

    3) If I stopper the whole stack, will I need to stopper each fixture individually?

    4) What is the best way, given my proposed system, to accomodate the inspector?

    I hear that you can install a speciall tee fitting with some kind of valve that allows you to cut off the flow, and then start it again so you can drain the water after the test. Where would I put it?

    Here is a pic of the planned system. Once in the attic there will be a wet vented system with a double lav into a cross, then hooking up with and venting a tub, then a toilet right before the pipe turns vertical down the piping on the first floor in the picture.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Attached Files:

  2. tbplumbloco

    tbplumbloco New Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Ohio
    prepare for inspection

    Yo Coach! #1.You must fill the DWV prior to the inspectors arrival and it must hold for at least 15 minutes.#2.The fitting you are referring to is a test TEE,to get ready for the DWV test you must isolate your new system where you tie into the cast-iron in basement and where the vent ties back into the existing DWV.
    If I recall you cut into 4"c.i. stack w/ a 4x3 wye you should install the 3" test tee coming out of the wye,then you need to buy the inflateable 3"combo test balloon+clean-out,they are sold at regular pbg supply house,with this fitting and test baloon you will not impact your existing DWV.
    Now where you tie the vent from your new bath to the existing vent you also need to install a 1.5" test tee,this is where you can fill the new DWV with water for the pressure test.Personally I would put a test balloon in the 1.5" test tee and fill the new DWV with 5psi of air,this must also hold for 15 minutes,also do not forget to cap or plug your new fixtures for the test.
  3. coach606

    coach606 New Member

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks

    Thanks, bud. So I actually need to install a bit of straight pipe off the 3" hub on my new wye tied to the 4" stack, then the test tee with the cleanout facing towards the ceiling, right? Or are you saying that I'll need to install the test tee below the 4 x 4 x 3 wye I used to tie in with no hub couplings? I kind of hope that's not necessary.

    Do they sell test tees that are 3 x 3? Seems like the smallest I can find is the 4 x 4.

    I'm creating a new vent line, but it will have a cleanout just below the cross. Will that be good enought to fill the line for the inspector?

    Finally, can I have the plumbing rough in inspected before I install the fixture?

    Thanks again, bud. I'm still waiting to do all this rough in, but I tied into the stack nicely thanks to all the advice I got here.

    Attached Files:

  4. tbplumbloco

    tbplumbloco New Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Ohio
    prepare for inspection

    Yo Coach bud, Yes they sell 3"test tees at a real plumbing supply house.Your picture with the placement of the test T is correct,glue in the shortest lenghth of pipe into the hub of the wye and the hub of the test T,You may need to turn or roll the test T so you have room to install the combo test balloon clean-out,do some research on the CHERNE web-site.
    As for the clean-out for the cross it should be placed above the cross say about 24"off the floor,your actual cross should be about 20" o.c. to the floor.and no that will not serve as the opening to fill the DWV with water,coming out of top of the c.o.extend the vent vertically as high as you can go,when you need to change direction use 45s and 90s and connect to your existing DWV,this is where the 1.5" test T needs to be placed,the highest point and fill with water at that opening.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 5, 2010
  5. coach606

    coach606 New Member

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    Illinois
    New vent thru roof...

    I'm actually putting a new vent thru the roof for the bathroom.

    So I'll probably put in a 3" test tee at the highest point before it goes thru the roof, then fill from there, right? Do I need test balloon for this second test tee as well? Does it stopper off the vent going thru the roof?

    Thanks, bud.
  6. tbplumbloco

    tbplumbloco New Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Ohio
    prepare for inspection

    Coach I did not realize you were going thru the roof with your vent,if it is not to dangerous stick the garden hose in the vent and fill the DWV with water,with the 3" test T in place the inspector would like to see or know that the system is filled with water creating the head pressure needed for the DWV test.With your water lines installed and tested at the same time this portion of the inspection is the rough-in top-out,the only fixture that is installed would be your tub,check-out the WATCO co.
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