Preferred Makes/Models - Tileover Access Panels

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by chefwong, Apr 3, 2013.

  1. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    Do you guys have any *preferrend* brands/models of tileover access panels.

    I want to incorporate one somewhere....where I can turn off the water feed to the bathroom.
    Tile size is not even selected or determined, but starting the homework
  2. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    Bumpity Bump.

    There are tons out just when I Google. Just never *held* one in my hands.

    I've used access panels in various brands for *sheetrock*, and there is a certainly a difference in *fit, finish and function* from the different makes.
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    22,013
    Location:
    New England

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  4. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    I've seen that. That's just a magnetic catch. I don't like the concept/design/
    I'd prefer some sort of hinged door system where there is less chance of a tile/panel dropping down.

    The drawback to the hinged door system is the larger gap on the hinged side..
  5. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
    4,159
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Chef access panels are an eye sore.

    Most times we just tile the job and if need be bang out a tile and reset later. You can pre cut replacement tiles and leave them inside the cavity for the repair later.

    If you need access on a regular bases why not use some kitchen cabinet hinges and make a proper door...

    JW
  6. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    The goal was to put the access panel right around the drain outlet by the sink....as it's a half pedestal sink and it should cover most of the access panel for the most part.

    Having the ability to shut off zones has been great. I've been incorporating them as much as I can when I remodel - without having to shut the whole house down, I can just shut off zones.

    I suppose the valves in the wall still accomplish the same function - as the reality is that the only time the *next time* water will need to be off, is if it's getting a GUT and remodel
  7. jswordy

    jswordy New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Fayetteville TN
    Dunno what floor you're on, but I put my line cutoff valves in the crawlspace. I agree they are nice to have, especially since science has shown us that a leak will not start unless it is 2 a.m. on Sunday. A simple twist "cures" it until it can be fixed.
  8. DougB

    DougB Member

    What I've done is frame the opening and made a panel with cement board. I tiled the wall, cutting the tile so the panel is removable. Caulk the joint, with the least amount - this will hold the panel in place. If you ever need access, just cut out the caulk.
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    You can do essentially the same thing with the magnetic latches...caulk around it, then cut it if you ever need access.
  10. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    The ONLY time I use caulk is for windows, doors, sealing a undermount sink to stone , and or just touching up a gap between paintgrade trim. And for all these applications, it's generally a *sealant* except for trim, in which I use Urethanized Elastomeric caulk.

    Caulk - it will NOT match up in sheen or texture with any of the grout lines...this is a poor idea . No offense for those suggesting it - just not my cup of tea.

    Ha. Surely I would have thought someone has incorporated shut off valves with a finished tiled wall.
  11. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    Many rough-in valves are available with integrated shutoff valves....it's just that 20-years down the road when you may need them, you (or the next owner) forgot or didn't know they existed, or they may no longer work well. These can generally be accessed if you remove the trim IF you cut your hole based on the mud guard.
  12. DougB

    DougB Member

    @chefwong: "Caulk - it will NOT match up in sheen or texture with any of the grout lines...this is a poor idea . No offense for those suggesting it - just not my cup of tea."

    I don't know what kind of caulk you have used, but most grout manufactrers have their own sanded/unsanded caulk to match their grout. You are supposed to caulk at change of plane, between the tub and tile, etc.

    Check out this place: http://colorriteinc.com/
  13. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    I've user Color-Rite. It's not a exact match..and I'm sure some colors may be better than others in color matching.
    I have my own *methods* on changes of plane....and part of this is due to type of grout I am using(I suspect)....
    I stopped using caulk at changes of plane as I got wiser with technique and materials used and saw that said products do no crack...YMMV

    Below is color tite matched caulk . Not a close match, but I suppose its still better than clear, white or almond.

    [​IMG]
  14. chefwong

    chefwong New Member

    Messages:
    710
    Location:
    District of Columbia
    We're talking about shut offs on the risers - right before it feeds the bathroom for the full SUPPLY throughout it. Not a shower/tub valve...


  15. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    IN a typical bathroom, the only fixtures that don't normally have separate shutoffs are those in the tub/shower, so while shutting the entire room off may be useful, normally, that isn't an issue since you can shut off each thing individually (if you use in-line shutoffs on the shower rough-in valve), which is why I mentioned it.
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