Pouring concrete around the shower drain

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Will C., Jun 2, 2014.

  1. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    Replacing the shower drain, 1. do I pour concrete just around the vertical riser(rough in) then use a inside cutting tool or something similar bc the drain I have the riser goes into the drain. or
    2. should I cut the riser and install the clamping drain to the riser before pouring the concrete.
    3. the height of the drain should be 1" above the new poured concrete?
    thanks for any help!
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple I love these ACO Shower Drains - Best in Class

    Messages:
    4,061
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Hi Will.

    Is see your in Mississippi - are you living in your own home? Is it a Condo? Multi Family?

    Sometimes you need to address fire stopping measures.

    Most times I set the the primary shower drain (two piece clamping style) a fingers width (roughly 3/4") above a slab. If I working over a solid plywood subfloor then roughly 1/4" above that. In Condo's and multi family it all depends on the thickness of the through hole and the quality of the floor.

    Some pictures would help me guess better.

    Pick yourself up a 2" Twist'N'Set Test plug and block the drain.
  3. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    It is a single level single family home. It is a slab that is why I'm pouring concrete to join where I meet the existing slab and questioned when to install the drain before or after I pour the concrete bc the drain will be on the outside of the riser or do I put something small like cardboard around the riser to prevent the concrete from touching the riser?
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,949
    Location:
    New England
    You need space around the pipe to be able to slip the drain assembly's hub over the pipe when you glue it in place.

    How big is the hole, and what are you using to make your shower pan?
  5. RedShoecounterbalance

    RedShoecounterbalance Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Will, clear a hole around riser say 1 ft radius, make drain connection, test it, tamp
    Down sand/earth and backfill with comcrete around riser , if you are pouring a sloped shower pan make sure to test your slab for porosity and thats its not sealed, scarify it , clean it and bond your shower pan or preslope (depending on what type shower pan your building)with good thinset....to determine drain flange height, you want at least 1/2 inch minimum mud at thinnest point of your new bonded pour. Check your local codes before listening to me tho!



    Jim will be by shortly to make it all clear if i confused you!
  6. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    ok my vertical riser is not plumb after back filling the hole possibly didn't have enough dirt under the horizontal pipe while trying to keep my slope.
    I can manipulate the drain dry fitted to level or do I need to cut the vertical pipe and use a flexible style fitting, so the vertical pipe is as plumb as possible before installing the drain.

    and stated was 6mil plastic under the concrete would 3mil or 3mil x2 layers be accepted (bc I have 3mil) or is this a no no..thank you for having patients with me.

    Attached Files:

  7. dj2

    dj2 Member

    Messages:
    409
    Location:
    California
    1. vertical riser must be plumbed.
    2. I hope you didn't forget a trap.
    3. When code calls for 6mm plastic, put 6mm plastic.
    4. You can cut the riser after pouring.
    5. You need space around the vertical to attach the drain set. You can fill and seal it later.
  8. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    thanks for the reply.
    There is a trap.

    That is what I figured would be said and makes most since to give a good contact to the drain. My questions are after talking with the guy in plumbing and not being sure if I trusted his opinion is why I started on this website. Have been told either way was ok and needed a 2nd opinion.

    Flexible fitting with bands on both ends and use it low enough on vertical pipe, I should be ok as long as it is plumb without using to much stress on the fitting?
    thanks again.

    Should I place rebar or something in the ground beside the vertical to hold it plumb while back filling.
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  9. RedShoecounterbalance

    RedShoecounterbalance Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Will, are you able to show us some pics?

    Did you tamp down ( earth, sand, pgravel around ptrap???? )

    Wait for HJ or a plumber, but l
  10. RedShoecounterbalance

    RedShoecounterbalance Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Will, are you able to show us some pics?

    Did you tamp down ( earth, sand, pgravel around ptrap???? Or bury it in concrete!)

    look at codes first & use mission band.... Hard to see from here..
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  11. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    Yes ptrap is surrounded with earth and sand not buried in concrete.

    pic is in 6th post.
  12. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple I love these ACO Shower Drains - Best in Class

    Messages:
    4,061
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    What drain are you installing over that pipe?
  13. Will C.

    Will C. New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Mississippi
    sorry best pic I could find online and its a pic of pic. All I have in is the back fill I can remove it if necessary and start over. Under the back fill is fernco style coupling connect cast to ABS. approx 4-6 inch abs to ptrap with the vertical riser it was plumb before i started the back fill (this is why I wondered if i should stake it with rebar and tie to the rebar to help hold in vertical position but don't want to stress the glued joints).

    Ppssibly can still plumb it while back filling but didn't want to add a lot of stress to the joints that are glued.

    I tried to keep the slope on the horizontal pipe. wasn't sure if i lost a little slope to keep the riser plumb was correct thing to do although the abs was only 4-6" long and 24" underground I was told it didn't matter since being that deep it would still drain if I lost a little of the slope on horizontal pipe.

    I know what the plumber said he was going to do and that is what I have done but while reading on this forum some people disagree on how to accomplish this.

    sorry for the long thread on something that should be simple I just don't want to redo this in a year.

    Attached Files:

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