Pool PVC pipe leak

[jayjones01]

Our pool was loosing water and we found the pipe leak (this pipe returns water from the pool filter to the pool), so now i need some advice on how to fix it.

On this picture you can see the pipe leaking water (crack is marked with red). Unfortunately, the leak is on that "T" connection and close to a concrete structure, so it's kinda hard to work there. Also, to the right, you can see a sprinkler, which works with a different pipe system and i obviously don't want to touch it.

On this second picture you can see the concrete structure, which is cracked and went down a bit (After last year's earthquake here in Chile), that probably caused the pipe to crack.

I would appreciate if someone could tell me which would be the best way to fix this. I've thought of just cutting the 3 pipes coming out of the "T" connection and replace the "T" pipe, but it's kind of hard to work so close to that concrete. I also thought of maybe adding some 90's to the "T" sides to bring the "T" connection away from the concrete... or maybe i should just get rid of that concrete piece ?

 

[Gary Swart]

Murphy's Law on broken pipe is they never occur in easy access locations. However, I think there is a fairly easy solution to you problem. I don't know how much PVC parts are available in Chile, but you can get them on line. What you need beside standard couplers, a small section of pipe, and a new tee is a slip repair coupler. You can just go to this site and get all for the information you need. http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/pvcrepair.php I have repaired several broken pipes with these couplers and they work very well.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[jayjones01]

Was reading about these slip repair couplers and still got some doubts. Let's say i cut off the faulty tee and now i have this:

All i would need is a Compression Repair Tee (for side A and B) and a Compression Repair Coupling (for side C) ? Or would you buy a regular tee and use extra pipe and 3 Compression Repair Coupling for A, B and C ?

 

[Terry]

You can add some 90's and jog the pipes without going to slip couplings.

 

[jayjones01]

Thanks Terry, I think I'll do that, I like the idea of leaving the tee away from the concrete.

 

[Gary Swart]

All three of the pipes will be too short because you cut the end off to remove the broken tee. You will have to make this difference up. There are a couple of ways this can be done. The easiest way is to use two repair couplers, one on pipe A the other on pipe B. If you do this, first install the new tee using a regular coupler on Pipe C with a nipple cut to position the tee in line with Pipes A and B. Then the repair couplers on A and B would complete the connection. The other way would require digging either pipe A or B out far enough to be able to pull the pipe far enough away from pipe C to get the nipple into the fitting. Not the easiest way and you would run the risk of breaking the pipe if you pulled too much.

Terry replied as I was writing my response. Yes, you certainly can do as he suggests. I've done it that way too. Either way works, neither way is very difficult although I think Terry's way involves more cutting and fitting, but then the fitting are cheaper. So, go with your gut.

 

[jayjones01]

Thanks for the explanation Gary, now i get it. I might have a hard time finding those repair couplers here, so I think I'll stick with Terry's approach, it's more work, but should be easy to accomplish too. Again, thanks for your time!

 

[Jadnashua]

Putting the offset in could add a second feature - it would add a little bit of flex, should the ground move again. Not much, but a little. The longer offset, the more movement it could absorb.