Plumbing design exercise - ranch with full basement

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drewintoledo

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I may build a ranch on a full basement. I have all of the living quarters to the south and sleeping quarters and bathrooms to the north. I've tried to congregate all of he plumbing fixtures in a near proximity to one another for efficiency on the north. I'll refer to this as the plumbing "cluster".
I do have a sink in the kitchen to the south further away from the cluster of fixtures and I may have a smaller sink in an island too. Maybe a utility sink in the garage as well. This is now in a closet but will probably bump it into the garage.
I do not want any vent lines on the southern roof over the kitchen. The sink is on an exterior wall and i want to keep plumbing out of the exterior walls.
Is it possible to simply use an air admittance valve on the 3 fixtures that are not located near the cluster?
I would like to know if any skilled plumber here would like to create a design from my floorplan as an exercise which would enable me to create a plumbing schedule bill of material to then generate a budgetary allowance?
Is anyone is up to the challenge? It's a simple layout.
I'd also like to budget for a heat recovery drain to connect the showers drains.
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Jadnashua

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You must have at least one atmospheric vent in the system. Depending on where you live, you may not be allowed to use an AAV on any of your fixtures for a vent. If you have at least a 2x6" wall cavity, you can run the vent up the wall without much loss, if you choose your insulation well, then through the attic with enough slope to then exit out the south side of the house if you don't want to go straight up.

You need vertical drop to use a drain water recovery system...how low will your sewer outlet be for the home? If it's at least 5' (enough to allow fitting it and the fittings to maintain the needed slope) from the ceiling above, you can probably incorporate one in the basement...if it's less, you won't be able to without adding a pump, which would be counterproductive, I think, in the overall simplicity and efficiency and reliability of the system.
 

Dayvr

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A couple things first. Where is the sanitary main entering the house. Is it a septic system or a public sewer? I assume you are in Toledo Ohio. Every state city and town go by different codes. Your town may allow air admittance valves but you local code enforcer may just not like them and thus disallow them. Personally I don't like them. All your vents can be run together in the attic space and go out the roof wherever you want. The island sink being the exception.
 

drewintoledo

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Wow you guys are speedy! Thanks for the quick response. I am near Toledo but will be building about 20 miles out in the country in another county.
The issue of height may be a show stopper for the heat recovery unit. I may be building in very flat land and unless I raise the basement quite a bit I'll be out of luck. If I raise the basement I'll need lots and lots of backfill :(
The septic will be to the east, or right of the house blueprint. North is up looking at the drawing naturally. I may set the tank slightly to the south east.
I should be able it use AAVs I believe... Although code exists, there is no plumbing inspection or enforcement outside of a health department blessed septic design.
That said, I don't want to doing anything I'll regret later or cause grief.
The reason I'd like to stay out of the exterior wall is because I want to build a superinsulated house and not jeopardize the performance of the exterior wall at all. The same goes for ceiling penetrations. I'll certainly have one over the bathroom cluster where the stack will reside, but I'd love to bring the kitchen fixtures over to this for waste discharge and not poke more holes in my thermal envelope.
Having said that, is it possible to create a design with my unorthodox stipulations?
If it's absolutely not possible, I could remove the island sink and move the big kitchen sink in front of the window to the northern counter, but I wouldn't want to if I can avoid it.
 

drewintoledo

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Can anyone tell me if 1-1/2" drainage will suffice from the kitchen, island and utility sink over to the bathroom cluster? Should I wye all of these together at a common location and run a single pipe from this junction to the stack? Any further information is greatly appreciated.
 

drewintoledo

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Thanks for the links Reach4. I will reach out for professional assistance when the time comes, but since this forum is called "DIY", well.... I was really hoping to come up with a rough plumb-in so I can generate an idea of part cost. Maybe I'm asking too much.
 

Reach4

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Thanks for the links Reach4. I will reach out for professional assistance when the time comes, but since this forum is called "DIY", well.... I was really hoping to come up with a rough plumb-in so I can generate an idea of part cost. Maybe I'm asking too much.
Look again.

I thought you were asking too much. Not close. I am not a professional. And of course I am not a skilled plumber, so you were not asking me to take on your project.

AAVs are usually OK if you put them in right and they are accessible for replacement.

1.5 or 2 inch for the kitchen? There seems to be difference of opinion, but even where the 1.5 is allowed, using 2 inch seems to be preferred. Note that a prime clog area is where the kitchen drain line goes from vertical to horizontal. That needs to be a long sweep (as does any drain vertical to horizontal). You might try to make that cleanout easy to access.
 
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