Please help - drain stub broke flush to fitting

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jepalan

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Hi -

The contractor that replaced our kitchen cabinets broke the drain stub off flush to the wall fitting.
It looks like the stub was glued into a 90 that curves over to the tee on the stack.
The stub is broken off flush with the 90 fitting.
See linked picture.

Can someone suggest what options I have to remedy this situation?
(Yes, I have already contacted the contractor, just looking for how something like this is usually fixed, thanks)

Any ideas much appreciated.
 
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Jadnashua

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While some profess to be able to remove a cemented fitting from a hub reliably and successfully, there's a tool that makes simple work of it. One company's tool is called a RamBit. It essentially is designed to self-guide itself into that socket and bore out the old pipe, leaving the socket ready for new stuff to be cemented in place. The only difference is, the socket (hub) now has parallel sides verses the slight taper of a new hub. Just use a generous slather of cement, and it will seal just fine when installing the new pipe. The alternative is to open the wall and cut out the old pieces, and glue in new...often, lots more time and therefore money verses the tool. A plumber probably has one, but anyone can buy one and they aren't hard to use. Just takes a steady hand and a drill motor big enough to not bog down while doing its job.

reed-pipe-reamer-2.jpg
 
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CountryBumkin

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What brand is the tool at the top of picture. That looks like a well made tool designed to do the job and last a while.
I've seen the tool ("Pasco RamBit") at the bottom of picture for sale at various sites, but it looks like a cheap tool (made in China stuff) that will be more difficult to keep aligned in the pipe.


EDIT: Never mind. I found it "Reed Tools" http://www.toolfetch.com/reed-manufacturing-ppr150-1-1-2-plastic-pipe-reamer.html

reed-pipe-reamer-1.jpg
 
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jepalan

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Thanks!. It looks like a reaming tool is worth a try. My contractor is sending his plumber over to fix it this week - no charge to me. I just wanted to understand the alternatives to cutting a big hole in the cabinet and wall so I could offer ideas if he decides to take a more aggressive approach.
 
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jepalan

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For others looking at this thread, I searched "pipe hog" and "plastic fitting reamer" and found tools from other manufacturers as well. Some of them are very expensive (~$200) and would only make sense for a pro to own/use. In addition to the Rambit and Reed tool mentioned, Milwauke and Wheeler Rex make "pipe hogs".
 

Terry

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For almost no money, you can cut a slice out, that is two cuts in the pipe that is glued inside the fitting, and using a flat blade screw driver and a hammer, you can tap out the pipe. The small section goes first. Having a pipe reamer makes it much quicker though.
You have a 1-1/2" pipe there.
 

jepalan

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Thanks again for the prompt, detailed and generous replies. I will post back with results next week.

When using the 'cut and chisel' method, is there any advantage to heating the 1-1/2" pipe piece with a heat gun after notching, but before trying to chisel/peel it out of the fitting? Or is the risk of damage to the fitting too high?
 

Terry

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I've never tried heat on the fitting.
I've split out plenty of them using small saw blade, flat blade and hammer.
Sure like the reamers that have now though.
 

Jadnashua

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It takes skill cutting/prying the pipe out of a hub...if you split the hub, then you have to take that out and replace it...the reamer makes quick, reliable work of it. Keep in mind that you're cutting soft plastic pipe...the cutting edge doesn't have to be super strong to work.
 

jepalan

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OK, contractor hasn't come back yet so I tried it myself tonight. It took 5 minutes and cost me nothing. I used a small heat gun and needle nose pliers. Heated from inside until old pipe piece began to soften then shoved needle nose between pipe and fitting and rolled/peeled it out. Pics tell the story...
 
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Reach4

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You are supposed to apply primer before applying PVC cement. That primer is usually, but not always, dyed purple to make it easy to see that you used primer.

index.php
 
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jepalan

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You are supposed to apply primer before applying PVC cement. That primer is usually, but not always, dyed purple to make it easy to see that you used primer.

That was just a dry-fit. I'm not going to glue in the stub until the new sink and countertop are in place. Thanks.
 

jepalan

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Postmortem funny story (at least I *hope* to laugh about it someday):
With the new deep + undermount sink, disposer discharge is 1" lower than the drain stub out.
Drain stub makes a horizontal run behind sink base & corner base to stack.
I will be removing the sink-base & corner base, cutting into wall and lowering the stub 5" this weekend.
All the worry about the broken stub was for naught.
Yes - I should have had a plumber in for consult *before* the cabinet work.
Egg on my face but lesson learned.
Good news is the counter tops don't go in for 2 weeks so plenty of time to fix.
 

Terry

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My new rough for kitchen sinks is 16" off the floor.
I've seen way too many $50,000 kitchen remodels where the disposer won't drain.
 

jepalan

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My new rough for kitchen sinks is 16" off the floor.
I've seen way too many $50,000 kitchen remodels where the disposer won't drain.

Yep. I moved the trap arm this weekend to a height of 15" above finished floor - which should be perfect for our under mount granite sink and Evo Compact GD. The builder had it at 20" above finished floor.

Aside: When I opened the wall I found that the Sani-Tee was not glued. It has held with a press-fit for 20 years. Additionally the 2" vertical drain pipe was not glued to the clean out fitting in our finished basement wall. I also noticed that the original builder did not use primer on any of the connections that were glued.

So I had to open the wall downstairs as well - and a 2 hour job took 2 days.
 
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