Please check my washing machine rough in

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JuanSigned

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Here is my rough in idea for my new washer location. My question is about the vent. The line in the picture is a 2" vent from the bathroom below. The new washer will drain into different waste stack than the one served by the vent in the drawing. This is a single family home so eventually all waste stacks join together into a common connection to the sewer. Everything I google about washing machine plumbing shows the vent coming off the same stack as the drain is connected to. Is what I'm proposing OK?

WasherPlumbingRoughIn.jpg
 

Reach4

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is from https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/laundry-washer-drain.59683

Non pro. Your red line needs to be 2 inch, and your turquoise line can be 1-1/2 I think. You might need to shorten your standpipe a bit to get the 6 inches. I was wondering if your vent could take the path of the green line that I drew in order to cut one less stud, but it looks like you would need at least 4 inches between the P trap and the green line.

pix_2.png
 
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Smooky

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There is no need to have a 90 and a tee. Just come straight up and then sani tee off to the left for the washer. You will save a fitting and some time.
 

JuanSigned

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I have a related question about the washing machine water supply lines. The plan is to have a solid counter across the washer, dryer and a base cabinet. There are a thousand pictures on the net showing this arrangement with front loading washers. But what I don't see in all of those pictures are water shutoff valves above that counter. I can't imagine trying to pull the washer out with a burst hose spraying water everywhere. Did I miss something, is it OK to bury the shut off valves behind the washer? What are the pro's doing nowadays? (as apposed to all of those pinterest pins my wife is saying she wants the laundry to look like :rolleyes: )
 

Terry

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You can hide the valves.

Anytime I install a new washer, I use new hoses. New hoses are a cheap investment.

804.1 All plumbing fixtures or other receptors
receiving the discharge of indirect waste pipes shall be
approved for the use proposed and shall be of such
shape and capacity as to prevent splashing or flooding
and shall be located where they are readily accessible
for inspection and cleaning. No standpipe receptor for
any clothes washer shall extend more than thirty (30)
inches (762 mm), nor less than eighteen (18) inches
(457 mm) above its trap. No trap for any clothes
washer standpipe receptor shall be installed below the
floor, but shall be roughed in not less than six (6)
inches (152 mm) and not more than eighteen (18)
inches (457 mm) above the floor.

washer_rough_sno.jpg
 
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JuanSigned

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Well count me surprised. The next thing you're going to say is that I don't need a floor drain either. ;)
 

JuanSigned

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So I am going to be putting a drain pan in. I understand that wet venting is evil but just how evil is it to wet vent through the washing machine drain? The waste arm will be 1 1/2" by 2 feet. Do the code guys make any accommodations for drains that hopefully will never be used?
 

Reach4

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So I am going to be putting a drain pan in. I understand that wet venting is evil but just how evil is it to wet vent through the washing machine drain? The waste arm will be 1 1/2" by 2 feet. Do the code guys make any accommodations for drains that hopefully will never be used?
If there is one, they might then want you to put a trap primer in.
 

JuanSigned

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Hmm, I hadn't considered that possibility. I basically copied the original drainage plumbing, just in a new location. The code guys who inspected the house during construction were, according the general contractor, "picky sons of female dogs." (the general didn't describe them in this G rated way, he was far, far more colorful. ;)) My thought was if it was good enough for them . . .

Here's a shot of what it looks like below. There is only the one waste stack that is accessible from this location. Just how much of a worry is this?
index.php
 

hj

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Impossible to tell "how much of a worry it is", but I would NOT have done it. I do not connect ANY "safety pan" to the sanitary system for at least 2 reasons;
1. As stated the drain can back up and overflow the pan
2. Unless you have a trap primer, and they are not reliable, the trap will dry out and cause odors in the building.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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.... I do not connect ANY "safety pan" to the sanitary system for at least 2 reasons....

Is that an HJ thing or code? We do it all the time here in Canada.

All our safety drain lines are connected to the sanitary drain lines. Where do you drain yours HJ? Into the bushes? Coke bottles? Dry wells? Or do you loop them some how into the storm lines.

I have never seen different here in Vancouver.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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I did have a main sewer line back up that netted both my basement floor drains overflowing. Talk about a shitty situation!

I have since place back flow gizmo's on them and cross my fingers a lot.
 

Reach4

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WE extend them to the exterior of the building, or into the garage. No problem with backflow OR sewer gas that way.
You think that might have something to do with your being in an area that does not freeze?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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WE extend them to the exterior of the building, or into the garage. No problem with backflow OR sewer gas that way.

And then do what with them? How do you end the line?

Do you you but some kind of grill over the end of the pipe? How do you keep air, bugs or mice from entering the home through an open drain line?

Can you post a picture?

I worked yesterday and inspected three emergency drain lines. One for the hot water tank, one for the washing machine and one for the garages mechanical room. All three drains tie into the waste lines on this home.

I have noticed something strange about the plumbing on these past two jobs????? WTF is up with no frost free exterior hose connections anymore. The last two homes have copper piping... This has got to be some kind of new local code. I think it is a bad idea but there has got to be a reason why. I chatted to the mason about it last week as well and he says he heard it from an inspector.... No more frost free. Copper with ISO insolation and some kind of loop...

Any ideas men?
 
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