Please check my 5600sxt setting

[Young]

Newbie question here. I tried to read other similar threads but seems like everyone's situation is a bit different so posting my own. Sorry if this is redundant.

Installed 5600sxt 4800 in Aug. First time having a water softener. And I know what software should feel like now. Throughout past several months, I've often noticed that soft water feeling going away. Not seeing significant build ups in sink, glass cups, etc. but I often do not get the same soft water feel. That's the only way I kind of figure out that something is not right. I check my salt level very often and I never run out. I've had times when I noticed that the salt level went down then I pour 40lbs bag. I also tried to check the number showing water level before next regen once in a while. Number ranged from 3200-3000 whenever I check which made me believe that I never exhausted it before 14 day forced regen kicked in. But it's just my newbie guess.

Some more data.
4 people family.
According to my water bill, we use about 150-200 gallons of water daily.
I tested my water hardness using the test kit I got from Lowes and it showed 250 which roughly translates to 15 (250/17.1).

Today I decided to do some more research and after going through a bunch of different resources online, below is what I came up with.

DF = GAL
VT = df2b
CT = FD
NT = 1
C = 30
H = 15
RS = SF
DO = 7
RT = 2:00
B1 = 10
BD = 60
B2 = 5
RR = 10
BF = 6
FM = p0.7

What do you think?

Thanks!

 

[Bannerman]

How did you establish the brine fill time should be 6 minutes? We will need to know the BLFC number so as to verify the appropriate 'BF' time. The BLFC info should be indicated on a label located near the brine connection.

It may be helpful to review the settings that were originally programmed.

Have you tested the water hardness after the softener at the times you feel it is not so soft?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Young]

To be honest, I read from some where that if C = 30 then BF should be 6. No scientific basis. I found ".50 GPM 1.5 LB SALT/MIN" on the label by the brine connection.

And I don't remember all the original settings that the plumber who installed it set but I think VT = df1b, C = 48, DO = 14, H = 10 and FM was also different.

And no I have not tested the hardness of treated water. What's the best method of testing it? I am guessing I need to get a few test kits as I fiddle with the setting?

 

[Reach4]

This is close. If you use RS = SF, then you would set SF=9 or SF=10/

Yes, you need a test kit to re-check the raw water softness and to make sure treated water is less than 1 grain hard. Get the Hach 5-B.

System info (not programmed)
salt lb/cuft = 6 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC = 0.5 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
cubic ft resin = 1.5 ; ft3 resin = (nominal grains)/32,000
Raw hardness = 15 ; including any compensation
People = 3 ; gallons affects reserve calc
Estimated gal/day = 180 ; 60 gal per person typical calc
Estimated days/regen = 11.1 ; Computed days ignoring reserve
Fleck 5600SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = dF1b ; Downflw/Upflw, Single Backwash
CT = Fd ; Meter Delayed regen trigger
NT = 1 ; Number of tanks
C = 30.0 ; capacity in 1000 grains
H = 15 ; Hardness-- compensate if needed
RS = rc ; rc says use gallons vs percent
RC = 180 ; Reserve capacity gallons (make 200?)
DO = 28 ; Day Override
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time (default 2 AM)
BW = 5 ; Backwash (minutes)
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes if #0 red injector; BD=70 if #00 white
RR = 5 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 6 ; Brine fill minutes

 

[Young]

Thanks Reach4!

Few differences I noticed are RC/SF, DO and VT.

Are there any significant differences between VT = df1b and VT = db2b? Why would one choose double backwash?
Sounds like I should be safe with longer day override? Perhaps this ensures that regen mostly happens based on metered usage?

Thanks!

 

[Bannerman]

I read from some where that if C = 30 then BF should be 6.

Not necessarily. It all depends on the BLFC button that is installed as the button size is not consistent between softeners. If it actually is a 0.5 gpm button, then 0.5 gpm X 6 minutes (BF setting) = 3 gallons entering the brine tank. As each 1 gallon will dissolve 3 lbs of salt, then your salt dose is 9 lbs per regeneration cycle. With your 1.5 cuft softener, 9 lbs is the appropriate salt amount to regenerate 30K of usable capacity.

If your softener had a 0.125 or 0.25 gpm BLFC button, then the BF time would need to be increased proportionally to provide the same amount of liquid into the brine tank.

I asked about the initial settings as I anticipated the 'C' setting had been too high. I further expect the salt dose was far too low to regenerate 48K capacity. As such, the softener's resin capacity would have been exhausted and will now require regeneration 1X using 27 lbs of salt. That will require 9 gallons of water in the brine tank which means adding an additional 6 gallons to the 3 already there, wait 2 hours for additional salt to dissolve, then initiate a manual regeneration cycle. If your brine tank won't hold 9 gallons, then perform 2 - 4.5 lb regenerations back-to-back with no water use in between.

After the total resin capacity is restored, then the programmed settings you specified, are appropriate to regenerate 30K of usable capacity on an ongoing basis.

If you're going to maintain your softener yourself, it is then imperative to obtain a Hach 5B Total Hardness test kit as it is an accurate and inexpensive professional testing method for both raw and softened water.

As your water is chlorinated, you can extend the DO setting up tp 30 days with no concern. As there maybe seasonal or usage variances within the distribution system, in anticipation of those variances, it is recommended to set the 'H' amount to 2 grains higher than tested.

 

[Young]

This is now all starting to make sense. Really appreciate your help here. I guess this is what I signed up for when I refused to get it installed by more expensive local water softener companies.

A few months ago, I noticed that the water felt really hard. Dry skin, etc. I had lost power to my house so I thought that somehow messed with the water softener. And I remember putting more salt and manually running the regen cycle a couple of times back to back which restored the water softness. Based on what you described, resin capacity might have been exhausted that required a couple of regen cycles.

I ordered a couple of Hach 5-B. Will use one to test the hardness of untreated water one more time and the other one to check the treated water. I am guessing people have them stocked to test water once in a while?

 

[Reach4]

I ordered a couple of Hach 5-B. Will use one to test the hardness of untreated water one more time and the other one to check the treated water. I am guessing people have them stocked to test water once in a while?

One kit is good for many many samples.

Maybe offer the other one up for sale.

 

[Reach4]

Are there any significant differences between VT = df1b and VT = db2b? Why would one choose double backwash?

dF1b Downflow/Upflow Single Backwash
dF2b Downflow Double Backwash

As I understand it, the SXT5600 only does single backwash (1b) normally and it takes a special version to do two (2b)

 

[Young]

One kit is good for many many samples.

Maybe offer the other one up for sale.

Haha. This totally confirms that I am a newbie.

Regarding double backwash, according to http://www.flecksystems.com/pdf/5600SXT-Spec-Sheet.pdf, it supports it. But not sure what the benefit is.

 

[ditttohead]

Regeneration should be based on meter usage and assuming you don't have iron or manganese issues then a setting of DO 30 days is fine. It is just there to keep the system clean during extended periods of non use.

single vs double backwash... this is actually fairly important if you are doing extremely low salting otherwise it is ok either way. This cycle blends the resin after regeneration, sort of a classroom session and it has to do with leakage, up vs down brining etc.. Just to keep it simple, I prefer a very short 2nd backwash, typically 2-3 minutes is more than adequate. If you are salting at 8 pounds or above, it really has no major function. The farther below 8 you go, the more significant it is.

 

[Reach4]

Haha. This totally confirms that I am a newbie.

Regarding double backwash, according to http://www.flecksystems.com/pdf/5600SXT-Spec-Sheet.pdf, it supports it. But not sure what the benefit is.

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index....sign-and-softener-settings.68762/#post-510476

A second backwash would redistribute/refluff the resin after the brining.

 

[ditttohead]

I missed the 5600SXT, this requires a different internal cam to accommodate the extra position. The 5600SXT uses mechanical switching as opposed to the more modern optical switching so a physical switch is activated at each cycle. The double backwash cam has an extra position to accommodate this. Do not set a single backwash valve to double backwash, it will not work.

 

[Young]

Do not set a single backwash valve to double backwash, it will not work.

So are you saying that my 5600sxt doesn't really support double backwash since I have a single backwash valve?

 

[Bannerman]

I saw you had specified double backwash and so anticipated your 5600 is equipped with the appropriate cam, While the digital controller is capable of either configuration, the double backwash cam (mechanical component) is an option.

 

[Young]

I saw you had specified double backwash and so anticipated your 5600 is equipped with the appropriate cam, While the digital controller is capable of either configuration, the double backwash cam (mechanical component) is an option.

I ordered my 5600sxt online. How do I know whether I have that option or not?

 

[ditttohead]

It will not work if it is set incorrectly. You can pull the front cover off and check the cam. The 2 screws on the side of the valve need to be removed to see the microswitch cam.