PEX connection question for shutoff valve in finished basement

[runner1980]

Hi, I bought a home which has PRIER C-244 Anti-Siphon Design hydrants installed. To be safe, I prefer to drain the hydrants and shut the water supply to them since it does get very cold in the winter where I live. Unfortunately, the shutoff valve used for the prier hydrant also shuts off water to my kitchen, washer, and dishwasher. I need to install another shutoff valve downstream of the appliances but that area is behind a Sheetrock wall in my basement. Even though the hydrants are anti freeze design, I can't tell if they was installed properly with a slant downwards so the water can drain.

The tubing where I would install the shutoff valve is 1/2 PEX. I did some research and bought the following:

1/2 pex ball valve,
PEX stateliness steel clamps (easier to install and need only one tool than using the rings)
crimp tool
PEX Knife to cut the pipe
Access Panel where the Sheetrock will be cut out

This all cost be about $100 bucks in Home Depot.

When I got home, I looked online and saw that Shark Bite offers a quick connect PUSH-FIT connection shutoff ball valve. The valve is more expensive, around 20 bucks, but the only other tools I would need is the PEX tube cutter. I can save about 50 bucks by installing it this way.

If you were doing this in your home and didn't have any tools, would you install it using the stainless steel clamps or use the push-fit connection? What is more secure?


Thanks

 

[hj]

The clamps are more secure, because the SharkBite valve will be able to rotate around the pipe.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[runner1980]

Thank you, I will go with the clamps than.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, you may be able to rotate a crimped pex connection as well as the Sharkbite fitting. They seal using different techniques, though; Sharkbite uses a O-ring, a crimp connection relies on ridges (barbs) on the fitting, and the ring (properly placed and crimped) to squeeze the pipe into a hollow, forcing the pipe against the barbs. The Sharkbite relies on SS teeth to hold it in place, the crimped connection on the pressure from the ring against the pipe fitting's smooth barbs. The Sharkbite connection might actually be less prone to rotate than a crimped connection, but neither are solid like a compression fitting or a soldered one.

You may also be able to buy a compression fitting, then the only new tool you may need would be a cutter. A conventional compression shutoff valve if you buy the pex tube stiffener (or buy one designed for pex that comes with them) would work just fine, as well, but may be harder to find. http://www.lowes.com/pd_208848-33599-T200C+1/2_0__?productId=3411824 and the stiffeners (the press-fit fittings like SHarkbite come with these to support the tubing so it doesn't collapse - they're hard to find individually, but if you do, work just fine for a normal compression fitting designed for use on copper - do NOT use any compression fitting without these on PEX, or it will likely leak, though).