PEX bend too much?

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Mattttty

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Is this PEX pipe bend too much?
I recently cut out a shower flow valve and put in a new one with pex instead of copper. Its been fine so far and I've checked it daily for leaks when using it. However I want to be sure nothing will fail (especially when I'm not home). These hot/cold connectors seem very good but I'm worried the bend is too much. I've wiggled it a lot and nothing is budging. Am I good?

pex-bend-too-much-1.jpg


pex-bend-too-much-2.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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Look at the specs for the specific size and brand of PEX you have. Each one will list the minimum bend radius...compare that with what you have. It really is pretty simple to check.
 
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Plumber01

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I wouldn't worry as much about the PEX as I would the way it's cockeyed in that sharkbite. The fitting and pipe are stressed.

You may be able to cut the copper pipe lower and use a longer length of PEX. That may help to align the PEX and the fitting better so there's no stress on the fitting.

I see a lot of sharkbites. I'd definitely put an access panel there.
 
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hj

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Did you NOT read the part in the instructions where it says "DO NOT USE PLASTIC for the drop to the diverter spout. Only copper or ips?

moen-tub-spout-install.jpg
 
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CountryBumkin

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Why is the drop to diverter spout need to be copper or ips, but the riser to shower head can be PEX?
What forces or concerns are there? Is it due to the short distance between the valve and the tub spout?


Moen Instructions.JPG
 

DaveHo

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Inside diameter is smaller & can cause enough back pressure to force water out the shower head when using the tub spout.
 

Reach4

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Why is the drop to diverter spout need to be copper or ips, but the riser to shower head can be PEX?
What forces or concerns are there? Is it due to the short distance between the valve and the tub spout?
I have two theories
1. The diagram does not show a support for the tub spout, where the shower has a cross brace and a dog-ear or other clamp.
2c0e44cc-a95d-40cd-8693-5a90bd8dd1dc_145.jpg

2. The tub spout has more flow, so for a given nominal size, the copper would provide a bigger ID.
 

Flapper

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I see a lot of sharkbites. I'd definitely put an access panel there.
I would always put an access panel to a shower valve (if I can). And put some shut off valves too. I don't see why they don't do that. You can change faucets easily but to change a shower valve you have to tear open the wall and do some hardcore plumbin'.
 

Flapper

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I have two theories
1. The diagram does not show a support for the tub spout, where the shower has a cross brace and a dog-ear or other clamp.
I think that's more likely; tub spouts are usually (afaik) connected to the shower valve with a solid copper pipe and all the support is from the shower valve.
But I don't see any reason not to use a larger diameter PEX and a drop-ear 90.
 

Flapper

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Is this PEX pipe bend too much?

I recently cut out a shower flow valve and put in a new one with pex instead of copper. Its been fine so far and I've checked it daily for leaks when using it. However I want to be sure nothing will fail (especially when I'm not home). These hot/cold connectors seem very good but I'm worried the bend is too much. I've wiggled it a lot and nothing is budging. Am I good?

PEX barely bends at all; the real question is about the PEX going into the push fitting there.
But if it's not leaking, I think it is fine.
You should put an access door or something, though.
 
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