Peerless 5600 Resin in Water Supply

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by Mgbss, Apr 20, 2011.

  1. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    I could have only guessed there was a Forum for Water Softeners, How Cool:D

    Anyway I have a Peerless Softener that is probably 20 years old and from researching I believe it is a Flec 5600. During the past few years I had to replace the Electric motor as it died and now about a year ago I had to replace one of the plastic gears as a tab broke off of it.

    Over the last 6 months it has seemed like the water wasn't getting quite as soft but haven't checked its hardness and a month ago I had the screen on my washing machine plug up with very fine white beads, replaced the screen and again the water is coming in slow on the cold side. I have also cleaned these beads out of the airaters on the faucets.

    I am guessing a screen or valve has failed but not sure also not sure where to get parts online. I would like to just rebuild the head completely if parts and instructions are available.

    Any thought or advise would be appreciated
    Joe
  2. SacCity

    SacCity In the Trades

    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Twenty years old, sound like time to replace the hole unit.
  3. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Saccity

    Thanks for the helpful reply.

    I guess maybe I should have started with is the white Beads I am finding in my Plumbing screens Resin? I am on Public water and also have other homes on this same public water system and nothing like this is showing up in any of them. My house has CPVC Water lines approx 10 years old.

    Thank you
    Joe
  4. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    721
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    It sounds to me that the distributor tube has broken and you are getting resin in the lines. Put the unit on bypass, then clean all the screens. You can get all the parts to rebuild the head and replace the resin for about $250.00. What part of Mich are you in. I have family in NW Detroit
  5. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Mialynette2003 Thanks for the reply

    I am in Mt Pleasant about 2 hrs from NW Detroit. The peerless dealer in our town is a well supply store and they are not to up on these units I have gotten parts there before but I have to explain everything and in this case I am in the dark so Talking to them or getting parts there would be difficult Do you know of a source for parts, do they have a rebuild kit for these or is it something you have to get all parts separately?


    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last question if the tube is broke is that a replaceable piece?
  6. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    There is at least one site that I know of that has fleck parts, they might have a total rebuild kit.

    The tube that might be cracked can be replaced....but chances are that it is the 3/4" and not the 1" that is mostly used today,,, so a change to the valve in that area would also need to be done.

    Might there be a photo of the unit so that we know we are talking about the 5600 or did you positively id the valve at the pentair web site?
  7. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    721
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    The price I quoted was for 60032 brine valve, 60125 basket & seals, 60102 piston, 13497 air disperser, 12638 o ring, 13301 o ring 2 ea, 13303 o ring, 13305 o ring 4 ea, 13302 o ring, 1 cu ft resin and the distributor. I could supply you with the parts. I would need to know the size of the distributor tube 13/16 or 1.05.
  8. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Thank you both for the reply

    I will get a picture up with numbers to verify the unit.

    I assume I will have to disassemble the unit to get the Distributor size.

    I will get a picture and see if my manual has a good blow up of the parts so I can make sure I have my ducks in a row.

    I would much rather rebuilt it than replace, I will get back with you

    Thanks again
    Joe
  9. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Not sure how to load up a picture on this forum but I did go to the Pentair web site and it looks to be the same as mine 5600 econominder the only difference i see was on the back of the head mine is open on the top so you can see the motor looking straight down.. The serial # on the head is 2295301 Peerless has its own ser #21192-m.

    Looking at my service/owners manual shows a fair blow up of the head I certainly think this is due-able 1 question i have does the distributor just come out of the tank when the head is threaded off? 2nd question what is the basket on your above list of parts?

    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011
  10. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    There are times that when the head comes off that the distributor will come up a few inches and then there are times that it will stay and not move.
    Either way it will come out of the media tank, getting a new one in if the media stays can be a trick..
    If a new one goes in then the end hole has to be covered so that the new media does not go down the hole, a piece of duck tape works great to cover the hole and is easy to later remove after the media has been loaded into the tank.

    Why the need for the upper basket? more times than not they are a problem later on in the life of the unit... if the plug water pressure for back wash and for in the house goes down.
    Don't get one unless your really really just have to have one.
  11. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Still not sure where the Basket is its not shown on my blowup or it is called something else. Is The Media more than just Resin? I assume if rebuilding and replacing Resin I would just empty the tank to install the new Distributor, or am I mistaken.
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2011
  12. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    721
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    It may be called a spacer. The spacers are ports that when the piston moves up or down it will open or close a port directing the water in a certain direction. The basket & seal comes as a kit so the part # I show is the kit # and not individual pieces. Yes you would want to remove all the old resin and start new. Once you remove the valve from the tank, turn it over and in the center is where the dist tube goes.
  13. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    Most manuals do not show the basket , but it would be under the valve body if they where to show it.
    Basket is Basket and Spacer is Spacer... The two are not interchangeable.
  14. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    If you are going to change the dist. tube, order a 1.05" pilot and 1.05" tube. The pilot is due to not knowing what dia tube you have now.
  15. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    That makes sense, basically upgrade to that size.

    My blowup does show a spacer, I thought it looked like a screen but the explanation above makes sense as a basket, it shows a seal above and below it.

    Question: what does resin look like and what size is it? What I have in my faucet screen is a white ball about the size of a flea. Just want to make sure I am truly loosing resin.
    What else is in the tank besides resin? Above I thought the quote was for a cu. ft. of resin the tank seems much larger than that, could be wrong of coarse.

    Thanks again
    Joe
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  16. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    There is only one resin that I know of that is white and it is a tannin resin, there might be others but I have not seen them.. as for the size... way smaller than a flee..
  17. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Anion/tannin etc. resins are white but so are some cation/softening resins.

    Put the stuff in some vinegar for a few hours and see if it dissolves. If it does it's not resin but little balls of hardness scale. If it doesn't dissolve, it's resin.
  18. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    Thanks Gary for the suggestion I tried the above with the Vinegar and they did not dissolve, they are a perfectly round ball. I am sure they are resin

    What else is in the tank besides resin or is it all resin? When I pull this apart should I just dump out the Cylinder
    or is there a better method for changing the Distributor?

    Thanks again
    Joe
  19. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    A cylinder is a shape; you have a resin tank. There is only one way to replace the DT. Take out the old and put in the new. HOW ya do it can differ.

    Some softeners have a gravel underbed. You can pour out the water until the resin starts coming out and then stop, stand the tank up and shake it to get the resin to fall back to the bottom and then, lay the tank down and lift the bottom about 6" or so and shake it so the resin and any gravel lay of the side of the tank exposing the bottom so you can see the dimple in the center of the bottom of the tank.

    The pointy end of the bottom basket goes into the dimple. You stick a finger into the distributor tube, insert the DT into the tank holding the bottom basket up against the top of the tank (still laying on its side) and get the pointy end into position (in the dimple) and holding the DT tight against the bottom, stand the tank up so nothing gets under the bottom basket. Stand teh tank up and shake it and everything falls down where it belongs.

    Or you can dump everything out of the tank into salt bags in buckets and put the DT in the tank and then pour the resin and gravel in after taping the top of the DT so nothing gets down inside the DT.

    Either way when you're done loading the tank with resin etc. and have things all back together, you put the control in backwash and let it run for a few minutes to rinse the resin and then take it back to service and do a manual regeneration at the max lbs of salt for your volume of resin (15 lbs/cuft), and then do a second one and you should have all the resin fully regenerated.
  20. Mgbss

    Mgbss New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Central Michigan
    A cylinder is a shape; you have a resin tank.:eek:
    Couldn't think (Resin Tank ) while I was typing, sorry about that. Anyway thank you for the description Just wasn't sure what all was in the Tank

    Thanks again
    Joe
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