1. jdanilovich

    jdanilovich New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    ga
    IMG_0268.jpg

    I build vanities like this. My contractor called me and said they have to cut the bottom out of top box for p-trap. My box behind doors is 16 1/2'' from top of vanity to top of shelve. They are using 7'' under mount sink I think. Is there anyway around cutting the shelve out to accommodate the p-trap. These usually go in new homes. Can they rough in different? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,075
    Location:
    IL
    http://www.keeneymfg.com/cad_drawings/41-P-Traps has various dimensional drawings. To keep things smaller, they can us a 1-1/4 instead of a 1-1/2 inch trap. Add a bit of space for the tail piece. I would think it would vary how flat=bottomed the sink bottom is as to how much tailpiece would be needed. Will you need to leave clearance to remove and insert the trap? Or can you make the compartment bottom lift out for easier maintenance. huge2.png
  3. jdanilovich

    jdanilovich New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    ga
    Good suggestion on a false bottom. Will try and figure out if it can be done. If you had this job can it be done? I know you needmore info and probably needs to be seen on site. My vanity is 34.5 high then they put countertop on in a new house. Can they adjust where pipe comes out wall? I do not know anything about plumbing. Thank you for helping me out
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,891
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Not once the drywall goes up. You might say it's set in stone after that.
    I hope this is for a bathroom, and not a kitchen. There would be lilttle space with a disposer.
    For a bathroom, with a 34.5" height before counter, most roughs would be too low if you have the lower end of the box so low.
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,075
    Location:
    IL
    Removable panel will decrease rigidity, but your unit looks strong. Figure the pipe thru the wall is centered about 18 inches off of the floor. It is not always that, but it seems to me that you should not have to handle all possibilities.
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,488
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    With the trap hanging through it, a "removable panel" would not be very removable. Depending on "where" the trap impacts the shelf, you might be able to drill two holes and let the trap stick up through them. The dimension from the top of the sink to the shelf, and even the depth of the sink is completely irrelevant; What counts is the height of the drain pipe in the wall, MINUS the drop to the bottom of the trap, usually 5" to 6", depending on the manufacturer. This dimension can only be changed by altering the drain line inside the wall.
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,075
    Location:
    IL
    How much space would need to be added under the trap to allow potential removal for cleaning at some point. Would an extra half inch typically be enough, or would that take an inch?
Similar Threads: p-trap
Forum Title Date
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Kitchen P-trap leaking. What am I missing? Aug 5, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & p-trap position Jul 31, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Options for a high set P-trap Apr 17, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Where can I find code on p-trap for PA? Apr 14, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & 1.5 male threaded p-trap to 1.25 smooth drain pipe not aligned Apr 7, 2014

Share This Page