P trap issue in bathroom sink

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Joe S, Aug 10, 2014.

  1. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Hi everybody, have found so much good info from the sight and am almost done with bathroom updating, but have run into an issue with my vessel sink. As the new install involved building up the countertop, coupled with moving the sink forward to accommodate the faucet, I know have a 8 inch vertical and about 9 inch horizontal gap from my drain's tailpiece to the top of the trap. Any ideas on bridging this gap would be appreciated.
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,644
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Yes, move and extend the trap to the new location.
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,005
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The p-trap is the last piece installed, not the first. Like hj mentioned, you may need to cut off what you have and install new to the new vessel sink. We would.
  4. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Thanks for the advice. i was hoping to use as much of the original plumbing as possible which led me to the thought of the offset. I most definitely do not have the expertise to solder if i cut out the old trap. Is there an alternative method to tying into the existing pipe in the wall? i will post a picture of the existing plumbing when i get home from work if that would be helpful in generating a plan of attack.
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

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    2,260
    Location:
    IL
    It would be helpful, if you were in doubt.
  6. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Heres a pic of what i have

    Attached Files:

  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,005
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    It looks like a trap adapter at the wall for the p-trap. There is a nut that snugs up a washer to seal around the trap arm. You can loosen that to remove or adjust the trap.
  8. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    I am attaching one more picture for some clarification/confirmation. This is taken from the side to show the connection. I'm assuming i can unscrew the trap from the trap adapter and be left with a threaded trap adapter. I would then run a length of pipe from the adapter which would connect further up in the cabinet to the trap which would line up withthe new sink drain's tailpiece. Am i missing something? Any suggestion for getting the existing trap and adapter separated?

    [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 11, 2014
  9. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,005
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    That picture is a lot better. That picture scares me. Is that lead pipe behind the p-trap?
    And if so, you need to be very careful with that. Maybe someone even older than me has some tips for that. They were done with lead before I started plumbing. That would have been something my uncle may have done.
  10. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Is there a way to know if it is lead pipe? My other bathroom had galvanized steel coming out of the wall, but this looks quite different. This piping was one of the reasons I was considering some kind of offset mechanism as opposed to rebuilding a trap closer to the new drain.
  11. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,019
    Location:
    New England
    Are you willing to tear a little bit of the wall apart and see what's in there? That is likely sweated in place. There is no compression nut/seal there, but it looked like it in the other photo from the distance and angle. If the pipe is lead, too much heat and you'll have problems, as would too little if you then tried to twist it off.

    If there's galvanized in the wall, you may be able to convert it to pvc or copper from the hub into the room under there, and get the trap where it needs to go.

    An offset to the trap isn't a great idea.

    Prior to this remodel, how did that fixture drain? Was it slow or have issues?
  12. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    It actually drained pretty well, never an issue. Not sure if i have the expertise to be working inside the wall. I may have to cave and call in a pro.
  13. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,644
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I would say that it is a threaded pipe connected to a galvanized nipple. But it could also be a brass trap sweated on to a copper stub. We won't know which until you remove that bell escutcheon covering the connection in the wall. Regardless of what it is, that trap has to go.
  14. Joe S

    Joe S New Member

    Messages:
    7
    As the escutcheon appears to be connected to the trap what is the best way to get a better look? Assuming i may need to cut into wall.
  15. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,005
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Now that you mention that, it does look like an escutcheon at the wall with a pipe nipple.
    That makes it easier. The p-trap goes.
  16. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,350
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Stop worrying about trying to reuse old parts. The parts you need are dirt cheap and will be much easier to use than trying to make do with the old stuff.
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