P trap issue in bathroom sink

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Joe S

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Hi everybody, have found so much good info from the sight and am almost done with bathroom updating, but have run into an issue with my vessel sink. As the new install involved building up the countertop, coupled with moving the sink forward to accommodate the faucet, I know have a 8 inch vertical and about 9 inch horizontal gap from my drain's tailpiece to the top of the trap. Any ideas on bridging this gap would be appreciated.
 

Joe S

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Thanks for the advice. i was hoping to use as much of the original plumbing as possible which led me to the thought of the offset. I most definitely do not have the expertise to solder if i cut out the old trap. Is there an alternative method to tying into the existing pipe in the wall? i will post a picture of the existing plumbing when i get home from work if that would be helpful in generating a plan of attack.
 

Reach4

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i will post a picture of the existing plumbing when i get home from work if that would be helpful in generating a plan of attack.
It would be helpful, if you were in doubt.
 

Joe S

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Heres a pic of what i have
 

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Terry

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It looks like a trap adapter at the wall for the p-trap. There is a nut that snugs up a washer to seal around the trap arm. You can loosen that to remove or adjust the trap.
 

Joe S

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I am attaching one more picture for some clarification/confirmation. This is taken from the side to show the connection. I'm assuming i can unscrew the trap from the trap adapter and be left with a threaded trap adapter. I would then run a length of pipe from the adapter which would connect further up in the cabinet to the trap which would line up withthe new sink drain's tailpiece. Am i missing something? Any suggestion for getting the existing trap and adapter separated?

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Terry

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That picture is a lot better. That picture scares me. Is that lead pipe behind the p-trap?
And if so, you need to be very careful with that. Maybe someone even older than me has some tips for that. They were done with lead before I started plumbing. That would have been something my uncle may have done.
 

Joe S

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Is there a way to know if it is lead pipe? My other bathroom had galvanized steel coming out of the wall, but this looks quite different. This piping was one of the reasons I was considering some kind of offset mechanism as opposed to rebuilding a trap closer to the new drain.
 

Jadnashua

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Are you willing to tear a little bit of the wall apart and see what's in there? That is likely sweated in place. There is no compression nut/seal there, but it looked like it in the other photo from the distance and angle. If the pipe is lead, too much heat and you'll have problems, as would too little if you then tried to twist it off.

If there's galvanized in the wall, you may be able to convert it to pvc or copper from the hub into the room under there, and get the trap where it needs to go.

An offset to the trap isn't a great idea.

Prior to this remodel, how did that fixture drain? Was it slow or have issues?
 

Joe S

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It actually drained pretty well, never an issue. Not sure if i have the expertise to be working inside the wall. I may have to cave and call in a pro.
 

hj

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I would say that it is a threaded pipe connected to a galvanized nipple. But it could also be a brass trap sweated on to a copper stub. We won't know which until you remove that bell escutcheon covering the connection in the wall. Regardless of what it is, that trap has to go.
 

Joe S

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As the escutcheon appears to be connected to the trap what is the best way to get a better look? Assuming i may need to cut into wall.
 

Terry

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I would say that it is a threaded pipe connected to a galvanized nipple. But it could also be a brass trap sweated on to a copper stub. We won't know which until you remove that bell escutcheon covering the connection in the wall. Regardless of what it is, that trap has to go.

Now that you mention that, it does look like an escutcheon at the wall with a pipe nipple.
That makes it easier. The p-trap goes.
 

Gary Swart

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Stop worrying about trying to reuse old parts. The parts you need are dirt cheap and will be much easier to use than trying to make do with the old stuff.
 
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