P-Trap, can I put this in like this?

Users who are viewing this thread

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Trying to finish up the bathroom remodel. I need to put in the P-trap from my shower pan. I have access to the plumbing from the basement (open ceiling). I've got 2 questions:

1. I'm wondering if I can do the P-trap like in the photo's I've attached. In the 3rd photo of course the P-trap won't hang down at that angle but will be at least 1/4" per ft. slope to where it will connect to the drain line.

The reason for the 90 deg. Fernco instead of a long sweep or regular sweep 90 is because the long sweep won't fit. With the regular sweep 90 when you attach the p-trap the top fitting that comes out of the p-trap hits the bottom of the joist ( not enough room to run 2" line to the drain.

The p-trap is connected back to the drain of the shower pan with a Fernco (yellow) supplied by the pan manufacturer (Schluter), I put in a linear drain in the shower pan.


I then have a 90 deg Fernco ( blue) with a 22 deg fitting (blue) attached to it.


Then here is the p-trap. Of course it will be sloped appropriately.


2. Where is the best place to install 3" Fernco, green area or red area. I'm thinking the green area. I need to add a 3" Fernco to this line because I need to "turn down" the wye to attach the drain from the shower pan. I didn't install it like this, the plumber I used installed it like this with the wye facing the ceiling. I know I should have him come back but don't want to hassle with it and want to get done.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,040
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
NO inspector would approve that "rubber" 90, and where is the shower vent before you connect to the main line? What "you" call a Fernco is probably NOT allowed inside the building.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Banded couplings are required above ground...the fitting supplied would be okay if it was buried, say with a shower built on slab. It looks like you ended up with the linear drain sitting partially above the basement foundation wall...tough place to deal with.

No flexible connections allowed!

The vent must be attached before the drain line can turn down after the trap, and within 5' of the trap.
 

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Banded couplings are required above ground...the fitting supplied would be okay if it was buried, say with a shower built on slab. It looks like you ended up with the linear drain sitting partially above the basement foundation wall...tough place to deal with.

No flexible connections allowed!

The vent must be attached before the drain line can turn down after the trap, and within 5' of the trap.
The first sentence and the sentence about flexible connections don't make sense.

The vent is back toward the left side of the pic, past the 3" drain line I need to cut to rotate the wye.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,040
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
From what I see, a vent at that location would be useless and a "Fernco", meaning a rubber sleeve with two hose clamps is NOT permitted anywhere inside a building. That "elbow" looks like a Fernco flexible rubber one.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Fernco makes LOTS of products, one of them, the one with a thick rubber sleeve with hose clamps on each end has colloquially become called a Fernco, but, as said, that Fernco product cannot be properly used above ground as the two ends of the pipe can become misaligned...they work underground where they are supported by proper backfill. The banded coupling also uses a rubber sleeve (much thinner) but it has a full metal jacket around it to keep the two pieces correctly aligned and those are designed to be used above ground. So, it makes perfect sense, if you understand!

Calling all Fernco products the one with rubber sleeve and only hose clamps is like calling all Kleenex products a Kleenex, where they make all sorts of things. One of these IS code for use in this situation, and, as you can see, is also a Fernco product:
sc-proflex-main.jpg


http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings
 

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Banded couplings are required above ground...the fitting supplied would be okay if it was buried, say with a shower built on slab. It looks like you ended up with the linear drain sitting partially above the basement foundation wall...tough place to deal with.

No flexible connections allowed!

The vent must be attached before the drain line can turn down after the trap, and within 5' of the trap.
Fernco makes LOTS of products, one of them, the one with a thick rubber sleeve with hose clamps on each end has colloquially become called a Fernco, but, as said, that Fernco product cannot be properly used above ground as the two ends of the pipe can become misaligned...they work underground where they are supported by proper backfill. The banded coupling also uses a rubber sleeve (much thinner) but it has a full metal jacket around it to keep the two pieces correctly aligned and those are designed to be used above ground. So, it makes perfect sense, if you understand!

Calling all Fernco products the one with rubber sleeve and only hose clamps is like calling all Kleenex products a Kleenex, where they make all sorts of things. One of these IS code for use in this situation, and, as you can see, is also a Fernco product: View attachment 34445

http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings
So are you saying the 90 or the coupling or both need to be shielded?
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
So are you saying the 90 or the coupling or both need to be shielded?
IN a drainage pipe, you cannot use those flexible, all-rubber fittings above ground. Stores sell whatever they want, that does not mean that they should be used. Just like you can buy an old-style two handle shower valve...can't use it unless you add in the required anti-scald bits to make it compliant. They don't likely tell you that on the package, either.
 

CountryBumkin

Active Member
Messages
915
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Orlando, FL
If you were ever needing to "snake" the shower drain, I think the "flexible rubber" part would be susceptible to tearing/failing.
Can you cut/chip away some of the top edge of that concrete block to allow the use of all ridged PVC?
 

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
If you were ever needing to "snake" the shower drain, I think the "flexible rubber" part would be susceptible to tearing/failing.
Can you cut/chip away some of the top edge of that concrete block to allow the use of all ridged PVC?
I hadn't thought of doing that, I'll take a look after the race.
 

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Ok, how about if I do this, no use of Fernco and using pvc? And yes, to be really comfortable with it I will have have to notch the joist. I know the max depth I can notch this 2 x 8 is 1 1/4" and I'll have to turn the 90 about 45 deg or so so I can get the notch within the first 1/3 of the end of the joist (the joist span is 14' 6") from this site: https://engineering.purdue.edu/~jliu/courses/CE479/extras/Notching_&_Boring_Guide_A11.pdf

Here I've extended the horizontal 2" pipe.


Next is where the p-trap is:


And the pipe that is in the way, the venting from my furnace to the outside.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Is it possible to relocate the furnace piping?
It looks like you could move the furnace venting below all of that.
 
Last edited:

Widgit Maker

Member
Messages
173
Reaction score
21
Points
18
Location
Alexandria, Virginia
Suggestion

Since this is a shower and this trap will remain exposed, you may want to use a trap with a clean out. Make removing hair that gets caught in the trap easier.


new setup 3 pipe in the way-1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Suggestion

Since this is a shower and this trap will remain exposed, you may want to use a trap with a clean out. Make removing hair that gets caught in the trap easier.


View attachment 34449
It is the joist that is in the way, the bottom of the vent pipe from the furnace is actually about 1" above the bottom of the joist.



I almost spoke too soon. I just went down and mocked up what you said to do in the picture; looks like that may work. I'll do it tomorrow and let you know how it turns out.

I still have the matter of cutting the 3" drain line to turn the wye down to be able to attach the 2" drain line.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Widgit Maker

Member
Messages
173
Reaction score
21
Points
18
Location
Alexandria, Virginia
If the vent pipe is above the bottom edge of the joist, put a street 45 where indicated, put a long street 90 in the 45 to go horizontal and put on your trap flat against the wall. Turn the elbow out of the trap to point to the drain. You will probably want the drain pipe tight up against the joist at this end to get the grade to the Y.
Don't see where it makes much difference where you cut the 3" drain line if all you want to do is rotate the Y and put in a coupling.

Where is the vent for the shower going to be?
 

MKS

Member
Messages
259
Reaction score
22
Points
18
Location
Illinois
Wet vent question, lots of ifs.
If 3/4 bath, shower, toilet and lav.
If lav has a 2" vent through the roof with no other fixture draining into it.
If the the lav drain in 2" goes down through the floor turns on the horizontal meets up with the shower drain after the p-trap then connects to the three inch drain via the wye that is pointing toward the floor.
Would that be an appropriate wet vent for this group?
Im assuming moving the furnace vent and running the drain through the joists.
 

Pitterpat

HandyWOMAN
Messages
89
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Indianapolis
Wet vent question, lots of ifs.
If 3/4 bath, shower, toilet and lav.
If lav has a 2" vent through the roof with no other fixture draining into it.
If the the lav drain in 2" goes down through the floor turns on the horizontal meets up with the shower drain after the p-trap then connects to the three inch drain via the wye that is pointing toward the floor.
Would that be an appropriate wet vent for this group?
Im assuming moving the furnace vent and running the drain through the joists.

Have no idea what you're talking about. Can't run drain through the joists, joist are 2 x 8, joists aren't big enough to drill a 2" at least hole through them.
And as written before, THE FURNACE VENT CAN'T BE MOVED!
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks