Oven Range hookup

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by jerome8283, Nov 13, 2008.

  1. jerome8283

    jerome8283 New Member

    Messages:
    140
    Location:
    New York
    The new range I would like to purchase requires a 40amp circut but I have a 50amp. Can I hookup this range to the 50amp?

    Also the wiring is coming from the wall, not connected to an oulet. What would be the cost to install a 3 prong oulet?
  2. jar546

    jar546 In the Trades

    Messages:
    432
    Location:
    USA
    Sure why not, do it and don't worry about the data plate on the range. I don't know why they put them on there anyway.

    Outlet is under $10. so DIY.
  3. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,534
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Why not just install a 40 amp breaker? It is fairly easy to do!

    4 wire, four conductor, 4 conductor, four wire.

    I hope I made it clear enough that you will need two hots, a neutral and an equipment grounding conductor for that brand new range that you are going to change the 50 amp breaker to a 40 amp breaker and install 4 conductor cable to supply?
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    Those guys sometimes get kind of flippant (usually justified, but not always!). On a dedicated circuit, your CB should match the manufacturer's specification. Current codes also require this to have the 4-wire cable. So, if the wire is 4-wire, (and it was sized properly when installed), you can pop out the old CB, put in a 40A one, and put in a new appropriate plug. There's no problem having larger wire than required for the load (as long as it will fit into the connectors), but you can't have smaller wire than specified for the CB you use.

    If the wire size or conductor count isn't sufficient, the whole thing needs to be rewired.
  5. jerome8283

    jerome8283 New Member

    Messages:
    140
    Location:
    New York
    I don't have an outlet. The wire comes directly from the wall hard wired to the current range. The label on the range states (3 wire).

    The manufacture manual states the following;

    Installation Instructions
    ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
    You must use a 3-wire, single-phase A.C.
    208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
    electrical system.
    If the electrical service provided does not
    meet the above specifications, have a
    licensed electrician install an approved outlet.
    Use only a 3-conductor or a 4-conductor
    UL-listed range cord. These cords may be
    provided with ring terminals on wire and
    a strain relief device.
    A range cord rated at 40 amps with 125/250
    minimum volt range is required. A 50 amp
    range cord is not recommended but if used,
    it should be marked for use with nominal
    13⁄8″ diameter connection openings. Care
    should be taken to center the cable and
    strain relief within the knockout hole to keep
    the edge from damaging the cable.
    • Because range terminals are not accessible
    after range is in position, flexible service
    conduit or cord must be used.
    NOTE: If conduit is being used, go to Step 3D
    and then to Step 6 or 7.
    • On some models, a filter capacitor may be
    connected between the black and white
    leads on the junction block.
    ALL NEW CONSTRUCTIONS,
    MOBILE HOMES AND
    INSTALLATIONS WHERE
    LOCAL CODES DO NOT
    ALLOW GROUNDING
    THROUGH NEUTRAL,
    REQUIRE A 4-CONDUCTOR
    UL-LISTED RANGE CORD.
    ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
    CAUTION: For personal safety,
    do not use an extension cord with this
    appliance. Remove house fuse or open circuit
    breaker before beginning installation.
    This appliance must be supplied with the
    proper voltage and frequency, and connected
    to an individual properly grounded branch
    circuit, protected by a circuit breaker or fuse
    having amperage as specified on the rating
    plate. The rating plate is located on the left
    hand side of the lower oven front frame.
    We recommend you have the electrical wiring
    and hookup of your range connected by a
    qualified electrician. After installation, have
    the electrician show you where your main
    range disconnect is located.
    Check with your local utilities for electrical
    codes which apply in your area. Failure to
    wire your oven according to governing codes
    could result in a hazardous condition. If there
    are no local codes, your range must be wired
    and fused to meet the requirements of the
    National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA No. 70–
    Latest Edition. You can get a copy by writing:
    National Fire Protection Association
    Batterymarch Park
    Quincy, MA 02269
    Effective January 1, 1996, the National
    Electrical Code requires that new construction
    (not existing) utilize a 4-conductor connection
    to an electric range.
    Location of
    model rating
    plate
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,636
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    power

    The label on the range states 3 wire, but that is only for the power source. New units still have a 3 wire power source but also a fourth wire for the grounding requirement. Older systems combined the neutral and ground so they only had 3 wires to the appliance. The outlet and range cord used will depend on which type of circuit you have.
  7. Speedy Petey

    Speedy Petey Licensed Electrical Contractor

    Messages:
    996
    Location:
    NY State, USA
    I hate that they put that "3-wire" crap on there. It only confuses things because they do not say "3-wire plus ground", or something else for existing installations.
    Those words are not at all necessary. "120/240" is all that is needed.
  8. jerome8283

    jerome8283 New Member

    Messages:
    140
    Location:
    New York
    I ended up installing 4’s and switched the 50 to 40amp. Thanks all!
  9. jar546

    jar546 In the Trades

    Messages:
    432
    Location:
    USA

    Very good, common sense approach.
  10. Ian Gills

    Ian Gills Senior Robin Hood Guy

    Messages:
    2,777
    Location:
    USA
    I hope you removed the jumper on the range as per the instructions for a four wire install.

    Often overlooked by my fellow DIYers but essential.

    And equally important, the wire must be of the correct gauge.

    Using 4-wire for a range is a heavy, hard job. I did not enjoy running fifty feet of that.

    I'd hire a pro next time just to save my back.
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2008
  11. electrotuko

    electrotuko New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    I would appreciate for devise installing a wall oven, requires installation of 50A power line.
    I will be using a ½ inch flex metal conduit from the electrical box to the oven location. Four 8 AWG THHN stranded wires will be running through (I have checked, they fit easily) the conduit.

    My question, should I use 8 gauge wires for only L1 and L2, and for N and GND use a smaller 10 AWG wire, since they will not conduct the same high current as L1, L2?

    The reason for question: In the electrical stores I have seen a power cord for the 50A rated oven (flex rubber cable as a replacement from the oven to the outlet) made in this way - two wires 6 gauge, two 8 gauge.
  12. jar546

    jar546 In the Trades

    Messages:
    432
    Location:
    USA
    1) 8AWG (I assume you mean copper) is not rated for 50A.
    2) You cannot legally place 4 #8 THHN in 1/2" FMC

    You will need to follow the data plate rating and the manufacturer's installation instructions for the installation.

    Is this a residential or commercial setting?

    If the cable is using #6 then why would you think you could downsize the branch feeder?

    Since you appear to not know what to do and you are dealing with a 240vac system, I would recommend a professional, licensed, qualified electrician do the work for you.

    I am sure you could get it to work like many people do but that does not mean that it was done correctly or SAFE.

    Electrical work is not a hobby.
  13. Speedy Petey

    Speedy Petey Licensed Electrical Contractor

    Messages:
    996
    Location:
    NY State, USA
    .................
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2008
  14. electrotuko

    electrotuko New Member

    Messages:
    47
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    jar546, thanks for your comments.
    Yes, this is a residential setting.
    Yes the wires are copper wires.
    I have checked the specifications for the THHN copper stranded wires; they are rated 50A at 75 deg. C.
    The same information was given to me in a local Home Depot store where I bought the wires.

    What is the current rating for the 75 deg. C rated 8 AWG THHN stranded copper wires included in a FMC for the residential applications?

    My assumptions, correct me if I am wrong:
    The replacement 50A cable uses 6 AWG wires most likely because it is a thick rubber cable, the wires inside do not have enough ventilation, plus the cable is flexible, not the stationary.

    I am curious if the all conductors in the cable intended to be used in the oven application where the neutral is carrying low current, need to be the same gauge?
    Again, the replacement 50A cable you may buy in the store has 2-wires #6 and 2-wires #8.
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