Old style lead toilet flange with brass ring

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by CALNNC, Jun 3, 2014.

  1. CALNNC

    CALNNC New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    NC
    I'm new to this group so be gentle. I'm in new territory here with installing tile in a small bathroom and have got the info about the flange being on top of the finish floor. In my case, I have a brass flange that sits around a lead extension soldered into cast iron pipe. The flange has a bevel and the lead is hammered around evenly to make a beveled opening. Like all modern flanges, should this one also sit on the finish floor? Would it be better to make wood donuts that would raise the bottom of the flange to the height of the finish floor and be securely attached to the subfloor with no thinset, membrane, or tile between it and a secure mount? I also would like to not have to replace all this with PVC, I know I can cut the cast iron and use rubber couplers but the cast iron is in very good shape as is the lead for the flange.
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,319
    Location:
    New England
    You can still buy those fittings...

    Where will the top of the flange be when you have your new floor installed if you don't do anything? The location on top of the finished floor is the ideal, and preferred if you can do it, but there are LOTS of toilets installed where that isn't true. If it will end up about level or slightly below, you can get buy leaving it. Otherwise, it will get more expensive to tear it apart and redo it.
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    We sometimes use two wax rings if the flange is low.
    Most of the time, lead is fine. However, too much bending can also crack the lead. We sometimes replace the lead bends for various reasons.
    Sometimes it's changing the rough-in. Sometimes they are cracked and need replacement.

    I would not try to raise the lead under the flange. I think that would be asking for trouble.
  4. CALNNC

    CALNNC New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    NC
    Well, the deed is done, as I have already removed the flange. The new floor will only be about 1/4 taller than the old one, and there is enough lead that it should seal OK. The lead sleeve seemed a bit long when mounted on the old floor, it really went beyond the bevel of the flange. That floor was installed years ago by somebody who removed the original tile floor, built the level back up from the plank subfloor that had the oldstyle cement tile base, and put down linoleum. My main issue was being uneasy about the flange mounted on top of the tile work, just seems a good solid mount to wood that went all the way to the subfloor would be the best, but, researching it all, seems everybody says it will be fine on top of the tile.

    Charlie in NC
  5. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,975
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Right, but it should be screwed through the new floor into the subfloor...
  6. CALNNC

    CALNNC New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    NC
    Thanks for the input fellers. Yes, I had planned on having the flange screwed through everything to the subfloor, just won't put the Charles Atlas to the screwdriver when tightening. If I can find this post again, I'll let you know how it all turned out.

    Charlie in NC
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