Old Gerber tub plumbing - replacing myself, need help

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Jeremytl

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Hello, Our tub is old cast iron, I want to replace it eventually or cover it, one. But thats another story. Right now I have a bigger problem, the tub fixture is leaking and I can't turn it off. I'm posting a couple pics in hopes of getting some recommendations or advice on how to go about it. I think it is original to the house, built in 1963. I'm pretty novice, so be gentle.

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Terry

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That looks to be Gerber if I'm reading the back of the valve body right.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_54560-1366-39617_0__?productId=1092421

If you intend to replace the tub surround, I would install a new single hande pressure balanced faucet in there. The old three handle valves haven't been allowed for over thirty years without an added pressure balancer.
 

hj

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If you just want to repair the faucet, take one of the stems to a big box or hardware store and they will compare it to their stock and give you the replacements AND the proper seats, since yours are probably damaged which is why it is leaking.
 

Jeremytl

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Thank you. I got the kit from Lowes. Had to go back to get the seat seal wrench. Turned pump back on. Tons of sediment came out. No leaks though, new kit works. Wonder why so much reddish sediment? Stirred up the well when I turned power to pump back on??
 

Reach4

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Get your well water tested. I expect there is a lot of iron. Consider a backwashing iron filter to remove iron (and maybe more) and to catch sediment. I would follow that with a Pentek Big Blue filter housing with 4.5 x 20 element. Do you have a softener? I would probably put one in after the Big Blue.

There is a lot of stuff you probably should do. Flush water heater. Replace anode in water heater.

Come decent weather, sanitize your well.

Get some Super Iron Out to clean off iron stains.
 

Jeremytl

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I decided to replace the tub spout while I was at it. Problem is, the 1/2" copper line out is about 1/2" too long. If I splice it with a coupler I may get it too short. I was thinking about splicing it with one of those push-fit fittings that require no sweating but I'll have to tell the kids not to turn the tub spout because if I recall correctly, the push-fit fittings turn freely, correct? What would you do here?

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hj

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What I would do is probably NOT what you want to do, so just measure how wide the gap is, unsolder the adapter, cut that much off the copper stub, and put the adapter back on and solder it. Or get a "slip on" spout which secures with a setscrew then cut the adapter off and slide it on. Then tighten the screw.
 

Terry

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Fit the spout, measure, cut off what you don't need, couple and solder.

Don't even think about a sharkbite on that. It spins. Have you wondered how that would work trying to tighten something that just spins and spins?
 
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