Northstar water softener

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Gary Slusser

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Clack makes a good valve. If it were priced the same as the Fleck 7000 I would consider the two valves comparable--there are some differences but on balance they net each other out in my view. However most internet sellors price the 1" version of the Clack valve about $40 higher and in my view the Clack doesn't warrant the premium.
I disagree that they are comparable IF you are looking at the ease of programming and repair by a DIYer but in this case especially where there is a cabinet model softener that is limited to a 10" x probably a 35" resin tank. There is no sense to go with a 1.25" control valve.

Actually most distributors sell the Clack at a higher price than Fleck valves, possibly due to Clack's distributor contract where the valve is not allowed to be sold separately unless it is replacing another brand of valve; as in this case. I suspect Clack charges more for their valves than Fleck does.

I would be interested in knowing what tilts the balance in favor of Clack in your evaluation. I hope you are not being influenced by some of the bad information posted earlier in this thread. I am specifically referring to the following points
--that the 7000 is overkill (bigger internal passages are always better if the price is the same or less, the Clack 1.25 in valve is about $100 more expensive than the Clack 1" and the Clack 1" sells for $40 more than the 7000)
--that the 7000 uses excessive water because of the variable brining feature (it doesn't have a variable brining feature so this comment is pure ####)
--that there is a difference in the ability of a DIYer to repair the valve because you need a screwdriver and pliers for the Fleck 7000 but you don't need those tools for a Clack (it is true that the Clack circuit board snaps out while the Fleck board uses screws but on the other hand there is a risk you will break the board or the snap fasteners with the Clack).
There is no sense in a 1.25" control valve on a cabinet model softener.

The tools needed to work on a 7000 are more than pliers and a screwdriver, I know there is a nut that must be turned to just the right position and IIRC (if I recall correctly) the manual calls for a socket. That is so the plastic nut is not chewed up and the piston can be 'indexed' just right or you can't get things apart. Maybe you don't know that Bob because you've never sold a 7000 or worked on one. And when you get it right and apart, you must re-index or you can't get it back together until you do. There's no such thing on any Clack valve.

To break the thumb tabs on a Clack you'll have to try really hard but, to get the circuit board off a Clack you can either take the board off or the board and the bracket it is installed on off as one piece instead of the board and then the bracket separately.
 

MiddleAgeSoftie

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Yes the 18grain should be used in helping to set up the meter..

Have you found the size of the media tank? is it 8" wide or 10" wide? most likely it is 35" in height...

From the Photo there was a Red tag.. what is the number on that ?

The red tag on the bottom of the valve body is a serial number. There is also a white tag beside the red tag. It says Injector #1 (the #1 is hand written) and Drain flow 2.5 GPM (Again the 2.5 is hand written).

I've tried to measure the tank and it does appear to be 10# X 35". The circumference is 32". If my math is right that works out to 10" diameter. Eyeballing from the floor with a tape measure looks like 35".

There is a serial number on the top of the cabinet (which likely won't mean much) which is NAC30MI. There is also another label (with no identifier saying what it is) which simply says "12 G".
 

MiddleAgeSoftie

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One more detail which, from my reading seems to be important is that the inside pipe diameter going into and out of the valve is 3/4"
 
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Akpsdvan

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One more detail which, from my reading seems to be important is that the inside pipe diameter going into and out of the valve is 3/4"

The older ones like that most of the time did have the 3/4" distribitor tube, the one going from the valve down to the bottom of the medis tank.

So far the number is not turning up ,, must be out side of the web records that I can get...

10X35 tank means that 95% chance that is a 1.0 cubic foot unit.

The injector is a 1 or white in color, the 2.5gpm is the backwash flow rate.

No idea like you on the 12g..... there was a reason for it going there, but it is now lost to time as to why....
 

MiddleAgeSoftie

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The older ones like that most of the time did have the 3/4" distribitor tube, the one going from the valve down to the bottom of the medis tank...

The pipe diameter I was referring to is the copper water pipes going from the house into the softener and from the softener back into the house rather than the distributor pipe going from the valve to the bottom of the tank (although that may also be 3/4").
 

Akpsdvan

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The pipe diameter I was referring to is the copper water pipes going from the house into the softener and from the softener back into the house rather than the distributor pipe going from the valve to the bottom of the tank (although that may also be 3/4").

Looks like I was on the wrong page... my bad...

But yes looking at the photos and the brass yoke that is in use looks more like 3/4" which would mean that the copper feed and return line or untreated and treated water is 3/4"....
 
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