Noisy Hot water base boards

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Devans175

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I just bought a new house and the baseboard radiators are really noisy. Gurgling whenever the circulator pump comes on. I tried bleading them several times over the course of several days. It seemed to go away for a while, then it came back.

What can I do, if anything?

I saw an episode of "Ask This Old House" where they moved the circulaor pump to the supply side of the boiler explaining that by pumping away from the expansion tank connection, the system will maintain a higher static pressure, allowing the air to remain in solution. They also replaced the old steel expansion tank with a new diaphragm expansion tank.

Could any of this help? Any other suggestions?
 

Bob NH

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There should be an air scoop with air vent at a high spot near your boiler. That air scoop usually has a place for a precharged expansion tank.

Your feed water regulator should be set at about 7 to 10 psi to keep pressure on the system and force the air out. Check to make sure the feed water valve is open.
 

Plumber1

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A new house probably has zone valves and purging valves. If you can isolate each zone separately , you should be able to bleed all of the air out of the system. Each return should have boiler drains for that purpose.
 

Devans175

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Sorry. When I said new house, I meant new to us. It was built in 1959. There are 2 heating zones, but as far as I can see, no air scoops or air vents. There are also no evident purge valves. The only thing that looks like a regulator which is marked. "max 150 PSI, then something Labled as a reducing valve which says it's set to 12 LBs. The reducing valve is bell shaped with a lever on top of it. I should also mention I'm on a well system.

I can tell already that I'm going to need a pro to look at the system. I just hoped for a little education before I call them so that I know what they're selling me.

Thanks for your replies and any other advice you care to give me.
 

Jadnashua

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That valve is an autofill valve I think. It adds water to the system if the pressure drops below the setting. There should also be a backflow preventor installed. What pressure is in the system? It normally runs around 12-14 pounds or so.

If there is no way to extract air it can be a pain to get it all out. The system should have some way to extract air. One brand is a Spirovent, Taco makes some, along with a bunch of other people.

If the pressure is low, try adding some water to bring it up.
 

Plumber1

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Take some covers off from the baseboard and look for vents on the ends of the radiation. 1959 probably arent any purge valves but there has to be vents of some sort at all the high loops......
 

Devans175

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I had my heating oil company come out and look at the system. They recomended, similar to jadnashua, a spirovent along with a pressurized extrol tank and a new check valve. Parts and Labor $1000 +/-. Sounds high to me so I'm going to get a price from a plumber. I realize the whole sustem needs to be drained, but $1000?

My question, which relates back to my original post, is.. while I'm having this equipment installed, is there any need to have my circulator pump switched from the return side to the supply side or will the spirovent be all I'll need?

Also, any opinions on spirovent vs. taco....
 
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hj

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air

If you are getting continual air infiltration, your pump may have a bad seal which is allowing it to suck air into the system. Your boiler probably has a fitting on the outlet and the tank is connected to it. If so that is a boiler air fitting and should extract the air, and send it to the conventional expansion tank. The pump at the outlet of the boiler is a good idea, but I am not sure if it has anything to do with your problem or cure. You have to find out where the air is coming from, since it can only come from adding water to the system or the pump sucking it in.
 
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