Noises after installing Cycle Stop Valve

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hoebe1

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I recently installed a CSV1W and experiencing noise in my water system. Well is 440ft deep and have no idea what model pump. Was installed in the early 90's. Still run great. Pressure switch set at 40/60. Cycle Stop Valve set at 58 PSI.

When the water draw is greater than the pump (such as 3 faucets wide open) can handle at 58 PSI (running at 50 PSI) there is a very loud rattle noise coming from the CSV. When the CSV is completely engaged at 58 PSI ( 1 faucet open) there is another noise kind of like a faucet is half open, I would consider this noise to be somewhat normal but is louder than I would like.

I was able to up the pressure switch to 62 PSI and the CSV to 60 PSI and the noise subsided a bit.

The noises travel to the first floor (valve and tank in basement) so its somewhat annoying when you run the washer, a hose end sprinkler and take a shower.

I have been working with the folks over at Cycle Stop Valves. I sent them recordings and photos. This is the first they have heard of a problem like this. For them to troubleshoot any further I must remove and send to their facility for testing. I'd like to avoid that.

Any ideas? Tank pressure? Noise eliminator?
 

Valveman

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I am the guy from Cycle Stop Valves. I do not know what is causing the noise. The 1” CSV valve was soldered into ¾” copper pipe. There maybe simply too much velocity for ¾” pipe, which could make a noise. If the CSV was not disassembled before soldering, something inside could have melted from the torch heat, causing a noise. If the CSV was disassembled, it may have been reassembled incorrectly, causing a noise.

As a process of elimination we would replace the CSV. However, I assume you will have the same problem, but we will have eliminated the CSV and can then get on to finding the real problem.

As I said this is not a normal problem. You are going to need to change out parts to find the problem. I can’ t just wave a magic wand and make the noise go away, or I would have already done that. :)

Put in some unions this time so we don’t have to disassemble the valve or take a chance of melting something with the torch, which I really believe is causing the problem.
 

Craigpump

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Cary,

Maybe you can put something in the installation instructions about not sweating fittings when they are screwed into the CSV.

Not that anyone would read them..........
 

hoebe1

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Thanks for the comments. I did both, unions and disassembled the valve to prevent any damage. I sweated the threaded adapter and 4" of copper before threading into the valve with teflon tape. I am willing to purchase a "repair kit" as illustrated in the parts breakdown on the web site, but Karen said they are no longer sold as it was not field install-able friendly.
If I did not assemble the valve correctly what should I be looking for when I disassemble the valve? Can the valve be tested for noise without the internal parts and not leak? Just want to make sure its not a velocity issue as you mentioned. Thanks again.
 

Valveman

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It will leak a little with not diaphragm or internal parts. But you maybe able to run it long enough to see if it is a velocity issue. I would guess that there is a foreign object like a glob of solder in the valve, or maybe one of the 3 O-rings is in the wrong place. Since I have never heard one make that noise before, I really don't know what it could be. If you have unions it will be easy to remove. Just send it back through the company you bought it from and request a warranty inspect. I will put it on the test pit and see if I can figure it out.

BTW the CSV1W valves are made to fit inside well casing. The CSV1A is a better choice when not installed inside the well as it is field serviceable and has a larger adjustment range.
 
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