No water pressure

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by stevedj, Jul 1, 2012.

  1. stevedj

    stevedj New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    ga
    I have been trying to help my inlaws with there no water issue. The switch that turns the pump on and off was burnt up so i put a new one in, still no water. I checked pressure in the tank and it has none. I try to put air in and i just here gurgling and it wont hold any pressure, tank is only 9 months old. I put a new contole box on and you can here a noise for about 2 seconds and then nothing. i pulled the 180' of pipe out of the ground and the pump is not connected to the pipe its just hanging by the wires. I dont think it would have been hanging the whole way up, wouldnt it have gotten cought on something. Also its a 3 wire franklin 2145089003 which is 3 wires and a ground but the ground was not hooked up to anything, only 3 wires ran up to the control box. They have had the house for about 5 years and it was built 8 years ago. Only other problems they have had is replaced the tank last year and replaced the controle box about once a year. I'm preety sure the pump is bad so im wondering since theres only 3 wires running up the well i should probly have them buy a 2 wire pump insteed of another 3 wire and another 180' of wire for the ground?
  2. PumpDr

    PumpDr Pump Doctor

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Yes, forget the 3 wire pump. I dont know why some pump guys continue to use them. If its less than 2hp then always get a 2 wire pump. Its common to find a pump that has "spun" or disconnected itself. Especially something like what you have, a 1hp pump. Its a pretty big animal and it when it initially kicks on, you get some thrust down there.

    Check to see if the pump will run. If you have an amp meter, wire nut the pump directly to the wires going out to the well and have somebody throw the power on for just 10 seconds or so. See what the amp draw is and see if that matches up to a 1hp pump (usually just under 10amps, but will spike up 20+ when starting). Chances are the pump is good.

    If you do decide to buy a new pump and get a 2 wire, then you will have to hotwire the control box inside. A lot of the time people will run 3 wire pumps without the ground leg because 90% of the time its 2 wire pumps and most guys don't have an extra spool of wire with 4 leads on it along with one with 3 leads.

    Best of luck to you! BTW - Get yourself some stainless steel adapters for when you attach the pump back on the poly pipe. And use 2 hose clamps. Heat the poly, slide it on the 1" stainless adapter and try and clamp down as tightly as possible while its still warm. Get yourself a few torque stops on there too if there arn't any already.

    Take care
    - Joe
    Pump Doctor LLC

    ___________________________________
    NJ Well Pump Service & Repair
  3. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,549
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    All the problems you describe are caused by the pump cycling on and off too much. The bladder in the tank breaks from cycling, like bending a wire back and forth many times. The burned pressure switch points and the bad control boxes are also caused by frequent cycling. And yes the cycling on and off is what unscrewed the pump from the pipe. The starting torque is in the right direction to unscrew the pump. So I am sure it was hanging by the wire before you started pulling the pump.

    There is nothing wrong with leaving the ground wire off of a 3 wire motor system. It has only been 10 years or so since they started putting that 4th ground wire on three wire motors. So if the motor is still good, don’t replace it because you think you need an extra wire.

    Then when you get it back to working, figure out what causes the cycling and how to fix that, and everything in your pump system will last many years as it should.

    I still prefer three wire motors with a control box as they will take the abuse of cycling far better than a two wire motor. Three wire motors also have more starting torque when needed for sandy wells and such.
  4. PumpDr

    PumpDr Pump Doctor

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Valveman - it was to my understanding that all motors turn at the same RPM weather its 1/2hp or a 1hp. wouldn't the water end or the impellers be more efficient in handling sandy wells?

    Sand wells are not my specialty. We don't have too many of them around my neck of the woods. Rust is our issue.
  5. PumpDr

    PumpDr Pump Doctor

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Northern NJ
    my point being, I don't understand how a 3 wire pump would handle a sandy well any better than a 2 wire? Sorry to hijack the thread.
  6. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,549
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Two wire submersible motors only have a Biac switch. It is suppose to jog the motor forward and back to break it loose when locked up with sand. However, the capacitor start from the control box on a three wire motor has much more starting torque. Once they are up and running, they run at the same 3450 RPM.

    When testing rapid cycle conditons, the three wire motor will start many times without a problem while the two wire will just trip the overload and not start after just a few cycles.
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