No one's willing to install a cycle stop valve

[ShoBear]

I'm having a hard time finding anyone willing to install a CSV in the Houston area. I've asked several well guys if they've installed them before and some say they have (but don't recommend them) and others have no idea what I'm talking about. How can I find a well service guy willing to install a simple, robust well pump and a CSV?

From reading it seems I want something with these specs:
Franklin motor with Grundfos pump, SS impellers in a "floating stack" design instead of a "floating impeller" design
1.5 hp, 200-260 ft deep well, 10-15 gpm, 120 gal steel epoxy-coated tank (not bladder style, brand new)
I've got old 4" galvanized steel casing and likely a galvanized steel pipe which may need to be replaced (with PVC I assume?).
And I might as well replace the wires while it's pulled.

Sound about right? I'm getting quotes around $2000-3000 to replace the pump.

 

[Reach4]

I've got old 4" galvanized steel casing and likely a galvanized steel pipe which may need to be replaced (with PVC I assume?).

You don't want to put a 3.9" OD pump into a 4 inch galvanized casing.

You could get a 10 GPM pump such as http://www.franklinwater.com/produc...le-pumps/tri-seal-submersible-pumps/#Features with a 3.75" OD. It says "Floating stage design allows impeller to float independently."

Replacing a 4 inch galvanized casing with a 4 inch PVC casing is not practical IMO...

I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ShoBear]

I'm not a pro either but I assume the 4" steel casing will remain. If that fails I'd need to drill a new well(?) I believe I *also* have a galvanized steel interior pipe which comprises the flow path from the aquifer to the surface which may need to be replaced with a PVC version.

 

[Reach4]

Replacing the galvanized drop pipe with schedule PVC is pretty common for good reason.

 

[Texas Wellman]

What part of Houston?

I will tell you this: all the wells here that are steel were drilled in the 70's and earlier. Most (95%) have failed and have been abandoned and a new well drilled. What happens is a hole rusts in the casing letting in sand and debris.

If you do fix your well it last for several more years or it could fail in a matter of days. I had a string of success fixing them followed by a string of failures.

At the very least you need to pull the pump and blow it to see the quantity and quality of water. If the quality is ok but it doesn't make enough water you need to acidize and then re-blow it.

You can reuse a 4" pump as long as it will go down easy.

For what you are wanting and probably need $2-3k is probably about right.

 

[Texas Wellman]

PS. You don't want PVC pipe set in a steel casing unless you have no intentions of pulling the pump out. I inspect the pipe and replace the bad sections, normally the top and bottom joints.

 

[ShoBear]

I'm in NW Houston. Yes, the well was drilled in '74. I was told if we had to re-drill a well it would be about $15k, which is money we don't have right now. The pump was supposedly replaced 8 yrs ago was was "top of the line" (smooth start, high capacity) at the time...

What do you mean "blow" the pump? We get power to the wellhead but it seems like there's no circuit through and of the wires downhole, suggesting it's burnt out (?)

 

[Texas Wellman]

Blowing or jetting the well is done with the pump removed. You use a large diesel-powered air compressor and "blow" the water out of the well. This will tell you how much the well makes and if the well produces any sand or mud. Some drillers will bail the well but it's the same result.

NW houston is a little far from me. I wish I could help you.

 

[VAWellDriller]

You have a galvanized tank, which means it has an air charger of some description, either a micronizer or a bleeder in the drop pipe. Neither of these work very well with a CSV. The micronizer needs at least 5 gpm to create a venture and draw air....that's what most people use around here. If you put in a csv, and have normal household use, the micronizer will rarely operate in it's sweet spot to make air. I don't know how well csv's do with a shot of air going through them, which is what would happen with a bleeder system....

I agree that you should not use pvc drop pipe in your steel well unless you use a 3" grundfos ....you may very well need the strength of steel to get back a normal 4" pump if that's what you go back in with.

 

[Valveman]

Air won't hurt the CSV. Can make them 5 gpm minimum when needed. CSV works well wth micronizer as long as you use a little larger tank.

 

[Texas Wellman]

Typical well setup in these parts is a hydropneumatic tank and a bleeder installed on the first joint. Bladder tanks enhance the sulfur smell in the water.

 

[ShoBear]

I've got a Snifter valve just on the well side of the pressure switch and a bleedback valve downhole a few feet. Both were replaced this year.

 

[Texas Wellman]

Is your pump down right now? FYI if the bleeder is the rubber type I do not recommend using a csv. If it's the brass type you're ok.