no glue abs connection

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hj

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flange

If a toilet gets bumped hard or pushed over or whatever, it would not have to be in contact with the flange in order for the bolts to break either the flange or the base of the toilet ... and I would rather have the flange break than the toilet.

That is an interesting excuse for doing a halfway job. IF the toilet were pushed hard enough to break it, (try doing it sometime and you will find you will break your foot long before you break the toilet), the flange would still not break first especially if it were screwed to the floor the way it should be. Maybe you should saw 3/4 of the way through the bolts to create a shear point which will break first under stress.
 

Redwood

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Using a plastic flange is a hack job?

Jump back, jack.

No Lee, Not gluing a connection is a hack job!:rolleyes:

But, Now that you mention it "I" do not use all plastic flanges as I consider them to be of lesser quality
 
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Leejosepho

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First, and in relation to the OP ...

I apologize for ever mentioning the idea of leaving a connection unglued: I like to encourage people to think outside the box even if only for just long enough to decide to go right back inside it.

As to the two since-developed issues in this ridiculous banter that has been going on:

1) If plastic flanges indicate hack jobs, then many professional plumbers are mere hacks ... and we all know that is simply not the case. Personally, and as a DIYer who had a residential contractor's license 35 years ago in his 20s, I began using plastic flanges after I long ago grew tired of repairing rusted steel flanges, and I just learned about stainless flanges right here a few days ago. So then, you can rightly say I ignorantly used a plastic flange while not knowing about stainless ones, but you cannot rightly call me a hack for choosing plastic over plain steel.

2) Having left an impossible-to-leak connection unglued might now seem providential since it would hence be a breeze to replace my plastic flange with a stainless one! However, here is the reason I am not going to do that:

The toilet in question has a porcelain bowl on a plastic base (with about a 4" opening) that could be easily broken by overtightened bolts when the factory-provided foam gasket (no wax ring) eventually needs replacement (as I already know it will unless I "hack" two wax rings to make one large one and do away with the foam gasket altogether as I have already done in the back of my old bus). But: Not having any idea who in the future might find himself or herself in whichever way repairing the seal at the bottom of that expensive, special-application toilet, breaking a plastic flange is far preferable to breaking the base of that toilet, and leaving a non-glued joint today will eventually save somebody an awful lot of work and the expense of a new toilet if the bolts ever actually do get overtightened. Understand? In simpleer words: Keep calling me a hack and I will continue trying to help you out of your ignorance just like you have done for me concerning flanges.

As a final thought:

What would a professional plumber say to me if I called and asked about having a frost-free toilet installed in my new workshop?
 
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Redwood

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Lee, I never said an all plastic flange was a hack job, But we have repeatedly said not gluing a connection was not thinking outside of the box it was hacking!http://www.rif.org/

Here is your frostproof toilet!

cac30767.jpg
 

Leejosepho

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Here is your frostproof toilet!

My question is about what a professional plumber would say if I called and asked about having a frost-free toilet installed in my workshop -- a toilet that could be used year-round and even in freezing weather. I am not asking about winterizing, but about frost-free usage.
 

Jadnashua

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Maybe one of those that incinerates the wastes? In a 'normal' one, the water both coming to it and in the bowl/tank could quickly freeze and ruin the toilet or start spewing water from the broken supply all over.
 

hj

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frost free

One way to get a frost free toilet, if you could figure out how to keep the water supply from freezing would be to install a "P" trap below the frost level and then use an RV "kick starter" toilet above it. But I would still glue the joints.
 

Leejosepho

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One way to get a frost free toilet, if you could figure out how to keep the water supply from freezing would be to install a "P" trap below the frost level and then use an RV "kick starter" toilet above it.

I had never thought about lowering a trap, but that would not have worked in this situation since the outlet would have been too low to properly drain into the septic system. I had thought about an insulated and heated stall so I could use a regular toilet, but then there would have been one more thing to take care of when an ice storm knocks the power out in the middle of winter.
 
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