No drain near softener - looking for idaes

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Akpsdvan

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And the one room is not above the other.............

What kind of room are you thinking of putting the softener in?
 

Akpsdvan

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To bad that the drain from the washer does not run down through that open wall that you talk about under the stairs..
 

Tater

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To bad that the drain from the washer does not run down through that open wall that you talk about under the stairs..

Yeah, that would do it. Going up is the only way out.
I'd still like to know if the waste/salt water that normally drains out of a softener is pressurized or not.
 

Zl700

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Someone mentioned a check valve on the drain line. You cant do that it has to go to a open drain with proper air gap
 

NHmaster

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sure you can ( you shouldn't) but you can put a check at the softener and still drop the drain pipe into an indirect receptacle.
 

Zl700

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A check with an indirect drain would be a waste of time, if you use a air gap, nothing could back up the line if the softener was removed as previously suggested.

Fleck states:
Never connect the drain line directly into a drain. Allow an air-gap between the drain line and waste line to prevent possibility of back- siphon
 

Akpsdvan

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The one that gets me is the Sears book that shows either the drain line going to the floor drain or into a laundry tub....
 

NHmaster

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The one that gets me is the Sears book that shows either the drain line going to the floor drain or into a laundry tub....

Both are acceptable by national codes. I wonder if he can just let it dump outside? which may or may not be acceptable depending on what, and where you are dumping it. ( really pisses the missus when you kill her bagonias :) )
 

Tater

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In my case I can't dump it outside due to freezing.

Thanks Gary and everyone else that helped. I thought I would add to this thread rather than starting a new one since it explains most of the issues.
I now need a recomendation for a Softener. There are two and a half baths but one full bath is in a spare bedroom that is never used. It's only me and my wife here.
The units I've looked at in Home Depot and Sears have a barbed shaft for the wastewater discharge. It looks like about a 1/2" tube would fit over it. A 3/4 inch PE was recomended earlier in the thread but would I have to add a special fitting to upsize and is upsizing necessary?

I'm extra worried about getting this right because I have to pick out and buy a Softener first and have a friend come over (hopefully next weekend) and run the waste line up and through the ceiling. Once the Softener is in place I need to have a Plumber come over to cut into the main and hook up the Softener so everything needs to be in place and working.

Thanks in advance.
 

NHmaster

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I try and stay away from equipment sold at big box stores. The valve bodies are poorly designed and manufactured and those units seldom last much longer than 5 years or so. If you are going to install it youself then look for either Clack ( the WS-1, not the EE ) or a Fleck valve. You have to decide on demand metered or not but I highly recommend a demand metered valve. They save salt and are very easy to program and service. If you don't like electronics then a Fleck 5600 will serve well. There are a whole bunch of online dealers that will be more than happy to help you out.
 

Akpsdvan

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Sears, GE, Polar Star are All The Same Units,, package might be different, but the valves are The Same..
 
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